As a newish Cali resident, I figured it’d be appropriate to start exploring my own backyard a bit more. A visitor can experience the tallest living things (Redwoods), the largest living things (Giant Sequoias) AND the oldest living things (Bristlecone Pines) in just one state. Dear California, what a resume you have…
SLEEP
After about 255 miles from LA, a friend and I reached Mariposa where we rented out an airbnb for 3 nights. A lot of visitors also opt for Groveland (check out Pine Mountain Lake), and with a 25 minute drive to the Yosemite gate (when CA-120 is open) and about an hour fifteen total to Yosemite Valley, it’s just a little shorter of a drive into the park than Mariposa. The hotel sitch can be tough with only a few inside the park (Majestic Yosemite Hotel)…and with any National Park visit comes high prices.
Update: During my second trip to the park, my boyfriend and I stayed at Tenaya Lodge near the south gate. With a massive Spa Room, 2 restaurants and a beautiful spa, I can’t recommend this highly enough. Even though the hotel is located about 5 minutes from the south gate of Yosemite, it still takes about 45 minutes to an hour to get to the main valley floor near Yosemite Falls (although much closer to Glacier Point!).
HIKE
Upper Yosemite Falls – I won’t sugar coat it, UYF was a bitch of a climb but well worth the view. It’s 7 miles round trip to Yosemite Falls and 9.9 miles (3,700 ft elevation gain) to Yosemite Point. It took us 7 1/2 hours to complete with the extension to Yosemite Point. The terrain changed from sand to rock to stone steps to mud after the rain. You get super close to North America’s tallest waterfall which has TONS of water in spring and early summer. The way down was pretty rough since my legs were shaking and I wanted to be horizontal and motionless. It’s a one-and-done for me 🙂
Taft Point – A mile hike to the most unreal sunset view point! Keep in mind if you stay until sunset, you’ll have to hike a mile back to your car in the dark forest. The last 10 minutes inside said forest were pretty terrifying. Bring a flashlight, y’all. And maybe even bear spray…
Half Dome – What.A.Beast. The famous half dome is a 14-16 mile round trip with an elevation gain of almost 5,000 ft. The last 400 ft to the summit is done with cables. Many people call it quits before then, but I can’t wait to go back for this challenge. A permit is needed only for the cable portion at the very end, and a “Daily Lottery” drawing happens 48 hours in advance here.
Sentinel Dome – This is still on my wish list, but apparently it has great views of Half Dome and El Capitan + the entire valley of waterfalls 🙂
Update: On my 2nd trip to Yosemite, Alex and I hiked Mist Trail which takes you to Vernal Falls and Nevada Falls making it a whopping 6.4 mile trip (when you take the John Muir trail back to the bottom…which you should). I LOVED this hike because it didn’t remind me of the Upper Yosemite switchbacks (kill me), plus it was a short hike with less elevation gain (read: EASIER lol). What made Mist Trail super memorable was the fact that the falls were FLOWING AF due to the snow melt…and we got completely drenched multiple times as the trail went right up next to them (hence the name). I brought the perfect oversized rain jacket with waterproof hiking boots, so I was good to go 🙂 If you have a car, park at Half Dome Village and take a shuttle or walk ~1 mile to the trailhead from the village parking lot.
VIEWPOINTS
What to know before you go
If you want to explore Tioga Pass, wait until late May/early June to do so. The National Park Service keeps an eye on the weather and road conditions. Of course I visited less than a week before the Pass opened 🙂 Ugh, I’m never early in life unless it comes to CA-120. Missed it by 6 days! We did, however, luck out and get to explore Glacier Point as it opened April 28th.
Update: My 2nd trip to Yosemite was during the tail end of April which was about 3 weeks sooner than the 1st trip taken last year in mid-May. Even though that’s roughly during the same timeframe, Glacier Point and Tioga Pass (among other roads) won’t be open for at least another 2 months (word on the street). 2019 saw massive snow fall which means it takes longer to plow and melt. Spring is still an amazing time of year to visit because the crowds are still sparse (so long as you don’t go during Spring Break!) and the weather is beautiful.
Hike early because crowds will come. We started the drive from Mariposa to the valley around 7:30am both mornings.
Bring food and water. There are a few options inside the valley, but parking is a pain and you’ll probably want a homemade PB&J when you’re atop Upper Yosemite Falls. That’s all I’m sayin.
Get gas before arriving to the gate. It was almost $5 a gallon right outside the park (saw me coming). The park is big, so if you’re an explorer and want to see a big portion of it, make sure you have at least half a tank!
Bring bug spray.
Entry fee for 1 vehicle is $35.
Know that this will be a pricey trip if staying in a hotel/airbnb. Prices go up around National Parks!
Cher says
Great post and beautiful photography!!! See , you can have an adventure without getting on a plane! May I suggest Lake Tahoe as another amazing destination. Summer is cool and not so crowded. Splurge a few nights on the Ritz Carlton near Truckee.
lesleymurphy says
You’re correct, Cher 🙂 Lots of adventures to be had in this state! Lake Tahoe is hopefully happening soon! xo
Sadie says
Since you have seen most of the world, how does Yosemite compare in views? Compared to other places you have been.
Kirsten says
Great tips! I was only in the Park for a day and a half back in September during a far larger tour of the state and ever since that day I have been dreaming about returning. It was a great time to visit Tuoloumne Meadows, which I cannot speak highly enough of, but we didn’t make it to almost all of these more jaw-dropping vistas that you did. I would also highly recommend Olmsted Point for those that need an easier hike. It could not be easier and yet it is an absolutely incredible view all the way across the park to Half Dome. If I had to price out that hike it would be a five star view for a zero dollar investment!
lesleymurphy says
So glad to know you loved Tuoloumne Meadows. I was about 6 days too early since CA-120 was closed last week and just reopened a few days ago!
Susy says
Sentinel Dome will always be my favorite Yosemite hike—great views of Half Dome and El Cap and the entire valley of waterfalls. Could even see Hotel Majestic (always the Ahwahnee for Yose lovers)! And worth the $ for the experience. Just be sure to reserve 6 mos. in advance. For pure magic though it’s Tuolome Meadows! My Father taught me to fly fish there, but go for the serenity!
Susy says
Tuolumne! :0)
lesleymurphy says
Gotta go back for Tuoloumne Meadows. The road was closed last week to get to it!
Susy says
You’ll make it there! Perhaps autumn! It’s beautiful and still hikeable until the first snow!!
Shanda says
I did the Half Dome Cables last year and was the highlight of my life when it comes to a grand adventure of really testing your body to the limits!
lesleymurphy says
Ah so good to hear that. I must return!
Christine says
I did the Half Dome hike with my mom a few years ago and it’s also brutal but completely breathtaking! I’d definitely recommend if you get a chance 🙂
lesleymurphy says
Sounds like this is the general consensus! Looks like a return trip is hopefully in my future!
Logan Jones says
Another fantastic article from the amazing Lesley! I’ll be sure to take note of all the good tips when I tackle this bucket list adventure! Keep up the good work!
lesleymurphy says
Thanks, Logan!
Mei says
Hi Lesley!!
I loved you on Bachelor Winter Games and love your lifestyle of travel!!
Your such a role model to me and inspiring!!
Carl banke says
Your site is Great
I’m often in China from
San Francisco area and I found your writing on shanghai while I was at the ritz
Christie says
Love your blog!! Was wondering were the set of 3 photos at the end + the final photo shot at Glacier Point? We are going to Yosemite for the first time in August for 3 days with our 10 and 12 year old daughters so we will be taking it easy compared to your hikes 🙂
lesleymurphy says
The middle shot in the shot of 3 is from Tunnel View. The other two shots + final photo are from Glacier Point!
Anna Makridi says
Great post! Thanks for sharing!
Chris says
My wife and I followed most of your trip to Utah and it didn’t let us down. Looking forward to following this one day. Acadia is next for us! I think the one lesson learned from visiting national parks is that they equal high prices for modest accommodations and booking early is necessary if looking to stay in official hotels inside the park.
lesleymurphy says
Chris, thanks for letting me know and I’m so glad y’all had a great trip! Thanks for the advice here and have a blast in Acadia!
Elisa says
Amazing pictures! Your travel are more enyoyable because you have the pefect pictires capture.
Michelle says
What is the rain coat you mention here? I’m coincidentally looking for one right now and am curious about what you’d recommend.
lesleymurphy says
This particular yellow raincoat is from a brand called Tif Tiffy out of Denmark – but any waterproof jacket will do you well on the Mist Trail 🙂
Sandi Kellman says
Ah Yosemite. Although crowded and expensive it’s magical. I’ve stayed at Tenaya Lisge twice. Loved their lodge and community barbecue. The mist trail is my fav “easy” hike theircin the spring. Lots of water to “mist” you❤️ Have you considered the Arnold area of Northern CA bear Calaveras Big trees. Arnold Rim trail and white Pines lake. It’s also close to Bear Valley Ski Resort. It is a beautiful Sierra if the beaten path little Gem !!!! Btw we are currently in Hanalei Bay Resort in Kauai. What an amazing location. Highly recommend. Blessings.
Sandi
lesleymurphy says
Hi! Thanks for the advice on northern CA area. I’ll check it out. Have also been talking a lot about Kauai. Thank you so much for this 🙂
Nancy says
Absolutely amazing!!!!!! You are as stunning as the scenery! You are an inspiration and I could not sleep last night for thinking of how I need to change my life, get over my fear of flying, and travel more. However, first, double mastectomy with immediate reconstruction on June 20th in Boston….
Thanks for sharing your amazing blog!
lesleymurphy says
Nancy – sending you nothing but love and strength as you get ready for this journey! Also – aviation has never been safer than it is today. Get on that adventure after you heal! xoxo
Scarlett says
Best hiking boots??
lesleymurphy says
I really love Danner and Merrell boots! I’d also opt for waterproof…whatever you do 🙂
Bob Klein says
I have been to Yosemite three times now and each time I go I still never want to leave. I have travelled to 40 national parks and Yosemite is at the top of my list, tied with Glacier National Park in Montana. You gave some great tips for future visitors and if any of your readers are planning to go read them over and use them. My favorite shot is one I got in May when the sow melt was at its peak and the valley below Yosemite Falls was completely flooded. Would love to share that picture with your readers. How would I go about doing that?
Robert Harris says
Wonderful read! Watching the sunset from the taft point can be a mesmerizing experience. The night sky of Yosemite offers an incredible view. Some of the best spots for star gazing are Recreation Point, Mile High Vista and Redinger Overlook.
Leanne Liddle says
Love your site, we’re coming from New Zealand in August. We’ll have a couple of days in Yosemite and hope to do a shorter, not so brutal hike. What’s the chances of coming across a bear lol?
lesleymurphy says
We had to search high and low to spot a bear in Yosemite – finally saw one via binoculars. I’d say it’s a low chance, but *anything* can happen. Carry bear spray for protection.
views says
really good place to visit with your family
antoinette bernard says
Very informative. I loved the first photo shot of the valley and waterfall. Where was that?