lesleymurphy

Travel Tag: The Alisal Guest Ranch & Resort

September 24, 2015 by lesleymurphy 2 Comments

The Grounds

Situated minutes away from the adorable Danish town of Solvang (complete with windmill), The Alisal Ranch includes 50 miles of horseback riding trails, a 100 acre lake, pristine tennis courts, a pool to cool off after a long ride, a spa, and – if none of those features peak your interest – two 18-hole championship golf courses are on offer. Needless to say, there is always somewhere new to explore on property.

The Activities

If the abundance of property features weren’t a tip off, the Alisal does not lack in activities. At the top of the list (at least for us) was horseback riding. Trail rides (for all experience levels), private lessons, and even rodeo lessons (seasonal) are big draws for guests of all ages. Our morning trail ride with our expert guide Bill was a great way to start our day at the ranch. Seeing the property’s beautiful lake, local wildlife, and gorgeous rolling hills made for a memorable ride that my inner thighs thanked me for the next day.

Also, the barnyard (and hub for trail rides and lessons) is home to critters of all sizes, including two pigs (#WPS), a goat, cows, chickens, guinea pigs, and even a tortoise. Trust me, your kid will want to stay all day.

Speaking of kids, the ranch is the perfect place for families with many activities geared to preoccupying children while the adults can do their own thing (see winery section below). Arts and crafts, air rifle lessons, archery, and fishing give summer camps a run for their money. By the time your family finishes a fabulous dinner in the dining room, everyone will be more than ready for bed.

The Wine

Speaking of leaving the kids at the ranch, with over 100 wineries in the Santa Ynez region, winos will love the abundance of wine tours and tasting rooms minutes away from the ranch. The unusual east/west valley orientation and wide climate range allow for many grape varietals to grow throughout the area, making it a perfect excursion for all types of wine lovers. We had the privilege of visiting three beautiful wineries mere miles from our western oasis.

Our first stop of the day was at The Brander Vineyard, owned and operated by founder Fred Brander, a man of Swedish decent born in Buenos Aires and raised in the United States. Needless to say, both Argentine at heart, we had a lot to talk about. Born and raised with a love of wine, Fred has kept family and culture at the center of his business. His prized wines include award winning Sauvignon Blancs and estate Cabernet Sauvignons. Let me tell you, they are yummy.

Next stop: Rideau Vineyard where the New Orleans vibes are infectious and will have you leaving a very happy girl. Met with Southern hospitality and a large glass of rosé, we could have stay at Rideau all day long. At the helm of this joyous estate is Iris Rideau, a passionate and self-made woman who built the vineyard from the ground up. Iris, who became an instant bestie, continues to be inspired by her hometown of New Orleans and incorporates creole traditions wherever she sees fit, resulting in the tasting room’s celebratory flair. Bring on the jazz and gumbo- I’ll be here a while.

For our final tasting of the day, we headed to the aptly named “Happy Canyon” region of the Santa Ynez valley. Named during the Prohibition, Happy Canyon boasts picturesque hills and scenic vineyards, including the Grassini Family Vineyard. A relatively new kid on the block, the Grassini family decided to turn their gorgeous Happy Canyon property into a fully sustainable and insanely eco-friendly vineyard in 2002. The impeccably cultivated varietals include Cabernet Sauvignon and Sauvignon Blanc, and are best served near the estate’s tranquil pond. Between the delicious wine and plucked-from-a-fairytale grounds, I may have found the perfect wedding venue.

The Experience

It’s easy to understand why the Alisal has so many repeat visitors. With enough Old West flair to satisfy the toughest cowboy in your group, and enough amenities to preoccupy a city slicker, the ranch has something for everyone. What the accommodations lack in big screen TV’s and modern details, they more than make up for in comfort and Americana charm.

Remaining fairly untouched since its opening in 1943 when the cattle ranch was transformed into a full fledged resort, the Alisal strives to pass on its decades old traditions that center around family and rustic elegance. For example, the dining room requires all men to wear jackets to dinner every night, which some may find extravagant; however, its hard not to admire the old fashion respect and standards they uphold. Gazing up at the mountains and stars with a belly full of perfectly prepared seasonal dishes (including a better-than-your-grandma’s blueberry crumble), it’s not hard to figure out why many families make this magical place a yearly excursion for generations to come.

Written by Jordan Murphy, TRLT Contributor

The Road Les Traveled was welcomed to Alisal as a guest, however our opinions are as always, our own.

Travel Tag: Alto Atacama Desert Lodge & Spa

September 18, 2015 by lesleymurphy 5 Comments

As my plane began its decent into the desert, I sat paralyzed in my window seat, partly because the mountainous landscape was causing horrific turbulence and partly due to the scene playing outside my window. My breakout of cold sweat and fear was met with a field of windmills generating power for the surrounding cities. Among these massive windmills lay an ever expansive view of reddish brown dirt, sand and salt accompanied by jagged mountains in the distance. As we dropped in altitude, so did my mouth of moisture. I couldn’t tell if I was nervous of plummeting to the arid earth or if my basic instinct for thirst was overreacting due to a soon deployment upon the driest of lands.

The Experience

Upon climbing into my getaway van after a safe touch down, I knew I was in for a luxurious kind of adventure. Alto Atacama was just over an hour from the Calama Airport near the quaint town of San Pedro de Atacama, and with the help of the copious water bottles by my side, I started salivating over the scenery along the drive. As the dust and sand had settled upon our entrance, I was greeted by some of the nicest staff I’d ever come across. I realized immediately that Alto Atacama was going to do much more than simply quench my thirst, especially after being treated to a breakfast of champions upon our early arrival. Afterwards, we were shown to a lovely suite, minimally decorated and allowing the surrounding landscapes to take center stage.

The Grounds

Completely enveloped by its natural surroundings, Alto Atacama feels like a desert safe haven, protected from the harsh environment just beyond the Catarpe Valley. The lodge plays tricks on the eyes as it blends seamlessly into the terracotta-colored ridge that rises behind it. With seven pools, Inca thermal baths and a spa on property, it’s hard not to feel alive and pampered among nature.

Speaking of nature, can you believe the stars here in the Atacama? A rare set of factors in this arid lunar landscape – very little rainfall, crystal-clear skies, high altitudes and low-to-zero light pollution – have created an unparalleled stargazing haven and a major hub for astronomical research. The Atacama Large Millimeter/submillimeter Array, or ALMA (‘soul’ in Spanish), is the largest land-based observatory ever built. More powerful than the Hubble telescope, it looks out to some of the most distant galaxies and observes the very first stages of formation of planets and stars.

The setting, views, tranquility and silence make Alto Atacama a destination in and of itself. Albeit hard to leave, I realized there was a whole new world just outside the Alto Atacama walls.

The Activities

Wherever I go in the world, it’s important that I have a plethora of activities and landscapes to explore. Sitting in a hotel room isn’t my idea of fun. Sure, the pools and thermal baths demand to be utilized, but when there’s a Planet Mars look-alike in my backyard, you better believe my Nikon and I will be in the thick of it.

This was technically my third time in the Atacama Desert, the driest place on earth. I could visit another hundred and it still wouldn’t be enough. With Alto Atacama, the opportunities to explore are limitless. There are flamingos, volcanoes, salt lagoons, boiling Tatio geysers (the highest and third largest geothermal field in the world), sand dunes, and astronomy tours (suspended six days before and three days after Full Moon period – plan accordingly!) Sadly, we overlapped during this time period, but even with the naked eye, the skies come alive with twinkling stars.

Guides & Staff

Alto Atacama knows service – and these friendly people have it down to an art. It’s very noticeable to me when staff members go out of their way to make guests feel at home. Same goes for when they strike up meaningful conversations other than the simplistic “How was your day?” I found Alto Atacama’s staff to be extremely accommodating, friendly, and intelligent. I certainly can’t speak three, four, or five languages, but they can. Let the inferiority ensue!

The Road Les Traveled was welcomed to Alto Atacama as a guest, however my opinions are as always, my own.

Oasis Collections: A Portfolio of the World’s Best Vacation Rentals

September 15, 2015 by lesleymurphy 10 Comments

With 15 destinations across the U.S., South America and Europe, Oasis Collections is challenging the hotel norm…and dare I even say, giving AirBnB a run for its money. Take note, generic vacation lodging. This is my formal break-up. It’s not you, it’s me. Well it’s kind of you. My standards have changed. Who wants the Master Suite when you can have a whole apartment to play in – namely, a kitchen to cook in? Who wants room upon room of identical decor when you can have a plethora of different luxury Buenos Aires rentals to choose from: modern, minimalist, eclectic, homey, regal…the list goes on. And who needs a marble-clad lobby with an autopilot concierge when a member of the local concierge team is on speed dial – with a local phone provided to me via Oasis? Uh, that’s top-notch service if you ask me.

The Apartment

One of the most standout qualities of my stay in this luxury Palermo soho apartment was Oasis’ attention to detail. Upon walking into an elegant foyer of pure Argentine bliss, I was greeted with an overflowing gift basket full of wine to celebrate, water to hydrate, free drink tickets to The Clubhouse, and a full menu of concierge extras. Cheers to Oasis Collections on this gracious perk and knowing how to treat a commoner like royalty. This immediately had me drinking the Argentine Kool-Aid (aka Malbec). I was giddy for the culture, wanting to walk the walk, talk the talk, and dance the tango.

Walking into the living area, I stopped and staired. Excuse the pun, but I couldn’t help myself. A modern staircase was the first thing to catch my eye jutting out from the very middle of the room. It just begged to be the center of attention, and oh was it ever. I’m thinking the interior designer had a hook up at Pottery Barn as the chic furnishings transported me to the set of a HGTV photo shoot.

The high ceilings and open concept floor plan had me wondering just how many friends I could fit for my house warming party after I purchase the place. Then suddenly, I was brought back to reality after realizing I was only on a week staycation and I wasn’t Beyoncé. Day.dream.over.

The expansive living area led into the just-as-expansive kitchen/dining area equipped with a pantry that housed all my Williams-Sonoma desires. Wine decantor to allow that gifted Malbec to properly breathe? Check. Cheese boards and serving trays perfect for my weekend dinner party with old Argie friends? They’ve got it all covered.

The balcony begged to be utilized in only the most appropriate of ways: outside getting sun-kissed with maté in hand – the Argentine caffeine-rich drink made from the leaves and stems of a powerful rainforest tree.

Oh, and the closet. We can’t forget the closet that could probably double as a third bedroom should anyone need it.

The Clubhouse

As the sun set, the city of Buenos Aires called. Thankfully I knew the nightlife well, but if future guests need more direction on prime spots, there’s an app for that. No really, there is, and the shining star is that of Oasis’ swanky private Members’ club. Allow me to introduce you to the The Clubhouse.

First and foremost, what kind of person would I be if I let free drink tickets pass me by? Wasteful, dismissive, and the world’s biggest fun-sponge. So I went, I saw, I conquered. What I found behind the unassuming rod iron doors and the man with the clipboard was a decadent world of pure exclusive greatness: Delectable cocktails, inviting pool and possibly the biggest perk of all to guests who may not know the city – a “home-base” full of people from all around the world to meet! A Brit, a Swed and an Argentine walk into a bar…you know the rest. I already knew what the establishment was all about since this has been my favorite spot in all of BsAs for the past two years. I plan on booking one of the four stunning guest rooms here upon my return. Aren’t staycations the best?

I’ll most definitely be back to bask in all the Latin America glory. I’ve got the tango to learn, and I’m craving a double dose of The Clubhouse, a true Argentine retreat.

Next stop: Rio de Janeiro to check out Oasis’ new Clubhouse Rio where I miiiight just become BFFs with Alessandra Ambrosio because, well, that’s the kind of clientele Clubhouse Rio is pulling these days. I’m going to start practicing my Portuguese, uhm, now. Calling all 2016 Summer Olympics attendees or New Years Eve party-goers…this is the place to be.

Live Global. Stay Local.

Not in Buenos Aires anytime soon? Not a problem. Oasis offers luxury rentals in all its global destinations, but word on the street is that in celebration of Oasis’ recent launch in Barcelona, London, LA, New York and Paris, they’re offering $500 off any booking made in ANY of their 15 global destinations by September 30th, 2015. Just Use Promo code: liveglobalstaylocal. Safe travels!

The Road Les Traveled was welcomed to a staycation in Buenos Aires by Oasis Collections, however my opinions are as always, my own.

Inside the Cockpit with Pilot Michelle Fry

September 13, 2015 by lesleymurphy 14 Comments

Voted Airline of the Year in 2014, Cathay Pacific has won ‘World’s Best Airline’ four times now, more than any other airline. Having traveled with Cathay throughout Asia this summer, I can tell you it’s all in their service quality, seat comfort and and inflight entertainment. But what about the people who are responsible for getting you from Point A to Point B? What about the fine women and men piloting the plane?

I had the opportunity to interview Pilot Michelle Fry who joined Cathay Pacific‘s fleet of outstanding pilots in January 2013. I must admit, I follow her on Instagram, and the girl has a knack for pretty photos with some wicked humor on the side. Read on as she opens up about life in the cockpit and why this career is a family affair.

Q: Out of all the jobs out there, what intrigues you about being a pilot and when did you decide that this was the career for you?

A: I knew I wanted to be a pilot since the age of 13 when I went up in a small Piper aircraft in Spain and had a go at flying. I still remember that experience so clearly! I thought it was the most amazing thing – I remember looking out the window when I was flying and watching my father in another plane flying in formation. From that moment onward there was no doubt in my mind this was the career I wanted to pursue! My dad is a Captain for Cathay, my mum used to be a cabin crew, and my older brother is a First officer in the airline too! I have been flying in Cathay planes since I was a baby so it’s just natural for me to want to continue the legacy. I would not have changed any of my decisions for the world. I am very grateful.

Q: You meet your co-pilot many times just before the flight, correct? Do you ever get to fly with the one person who taught you the ropes first – your dad?

A: Since there are around 3,000 pilots now, it’s quite rare we fly with the same crew twice! Unfortunately my dad is on the Airbus fleet and I am on the Boeing, so we don’t get to fly together which is a shame! We do get to talk flying a lot though. My older brother is also flying Boeing for Cathay so we have flown together which was surreal!

Q: Have you ever been tipped as a pilot?

A; No I never have! People are always surprised to hear that, I suppose it’s my age!

Q: How often are you snoozing in the cockpit?

A: I fly long range aircrafts with four pilots, so we have our own separate crew rest area outside of the cockpit.

Q: Are pilots really served two different meals during flight in case of food poisoning?

A: There are always multiple choices of crew meals for us to pick from as a precaution.

Q: What is your favorite route and destination you’ve visited?

A: My personal favorite is anywhere in Europe really. I am in love with the culture and the food. It’s amazing being able to walk around – grab some gelato, explore the coliseum! As far as cities go – I do love going to London. I have a lot of friends and family there and it is always a great layover.

Q: You’ve traveled to so many places. How much time can you dedicate to actually seeing a destination upon landing?

A: Obviously the priory is resting and recouping, however I do always make a conscious effort to get out and explore the city I fly to. It is sometimes hard with the jetlag but it is always worth it. I find once you travel to a place multiple times you start to get a routine down pat for that city, like which restaurants you like or which shops to hit!

Q: If you fly long-haul flights, that must be tough. Is it hard being confined to the cockpit for such a long period of time?

A: To be honest you get used to it. It would be the same as an office worker being stuck in a cubical for 8 hours a day, but we just have better views!

Q: Tell me about the airplane food. What’s your go-to meal or snack?

A: I’m sure most frequent travellers would agree airplane food can get tiring after a while. I try when I can to bring my own food and healthy snacks so when they bring the chocolate tray out I am not as tempted!

Q: What’s the hardest thing about being a pilot?

A: Technically, it would be keeping up with all the changes and updates to the manuals and keeping on top of all of the info. As far as lifestyle goes, I guess that would have to be keeping a routine going and keeping active. It is hard sometimes when you are so tired and last thing you want to do is go to the gym or eat healthy, but once you make the effort it feels so much better. People ask how I deal with jetlag and honestly I think exercising is the key. It gives you a better quality of sleep.

Q: How do you pack for each flight? Traveling light can be tough!

A: Haha like I said before, once you do this job for a few years you get a routine down pat – I have a list in my head of everything I want to bring! I’m getting good at packing light now – Sometimes I even have a smaller bag than the boys!

Q You must have amazing benefits working for an airline. Do you fly for free?

A: We don’t fly for free but we can staff travel at a heavily discounted rate if there is a spare seat on the plane.

Q: What’s the weirdest or scariest thing you’ve ever encountered while on the job?

A: So far I have been lucky and haven’t experienced anything too scary yet. I suppose flying near a big storm and experiencing brief moments of severe turbulence can be a bit uncomfortable. Weirdest thing was two passengers on my flight getting into a punch up because one claimed the other stole his menu. Another time we were taxing out and had to stop briefly to let a family of turtles pass the taxiway!

Q: Do you ever get scared of flying? What’s some advice you have for fearful fliers on your plane?

A: I personally have never been scared of flying or turbulence, but a lot of my friends ask me this question! I always tell them there is nothing to be worried about. There are so many back up systems on a plane that it is incredibly safe. Statistically it would be more dangerous getting in a car!

Q: Take me through a typical day in the life of Michelle Fry. What does it look like? How long do you have to arrive before the passengers? What do you do when you’re flying on auto-pilot? Does landing a plane ever get old? Do passengers ever personally thank you afterwards? What do you do to relax after a flight?

A: Since I am away a fair bit, when I am at home in Hong Kong it is mainly catching up on life admin! I always love seeing my friends, going to the gym, all the usual stuff! If I have a big block of days off in a row, I tend to get out and see my family back in Australia or make a sneaky getaway to a beach somewhere around Asia.

In terms of going to work, the crew reports for duty 70 minutes before departure, goes through all the paperwork together and has a chat about everything from weather to fuel decisions, then we make our way to the plane and start setting up. Right now I am currently a Second officer so I don’t take off or land the plane. I take over in the cruise while the other crew are resting, however I should be upgrading to First officer at the end of the year which is very exciting! After a flight to relax, I love just curling up in my hotel room and putting on an episode of friends or read a book and turn my brain off!

Q: The tragedies that have happened in recent years have been gut-wrenching – the fateful day of 9/11, both Malaysia Airline disasters, the current Germanwings investigation. How have these unforgettable catastrophes affected you and the way you fly?

A: It has been a terrible year for aviation. Personally, incidents like those just remind me that we carry a huge responsibility with our job and to never forget that!

Let’s Get Conscious About Cuba

September 10, 2015 by lesleymurphy 6 Comments

Our Cuban guide, Natalie, met us shortly after. As we made our way to the hotel, I noticed one of the first things she mentioned was how proud she was to be a woman in Cuba, how women have just as many rights as men. She mentioned how accepted transgender people are amongst the community, offering free surgery and easy name changes. Wow, perhaps we can learn something from the Cuban people here, I thought. She then discussed the many shortcomings – the lack of resources, the thriving black market, the oppression.

This was my first time in Cuba, and I had no idea how to prepare or what to expect. To say that I’ve now seen Cuba, understand its people, or can offer anything but a glimpse would be insulting. What I can say is just go. Go see, speak, smell, and experience it yourself. Just like any other foreign travel, expect to get frustrated and tired, craving normalcy and routine. In the end, you’ll be incredibly glad you’ve seen this piece of paradise that’s been locked away for far too many years.

How Did I Travel to Cuba?

I was invited south to experience Cuba’s cultural richness and diversity with Conscious Cuba, a travel agency specializing in giving visitors the most authentic Cuban experience possible, allowing Americans to see Cuba legally and authentically through customized people-to-people tours. As the travel embargo has not yet been lifted for American travelers, we must contact an organization that sponsors licensed people-to-people trips and participate in their itinerary. Because Cuba entails a bit more paperwork than other foreign nations, Conscious Cuba suggests spending the night in Miami before the trip to ensure smooth sailing. To handle all logistics, our tour guide met us at the Miami airport the following morning, providing us with our visas and plane tickets as we boarded our American Airlines flight operated by ABC Charters.

Goods of Havana

So you want to know about the cars and cigars (and the rum and the coffee). I was just getting to that. During one of our first outings, we came upon this cute little Barbie car in Plaza de la Revolución, the city’s largest square where the Cuban government is based along with political rallies and city events.

The old cars are nothing short of everywhere, attracting my eyes and Nikon at each and every drive by. It should be noted that newer car models are being imported as more foreigners begin work in Havana, making cool drive-bys happen about 7 out of 10 times. I did not take any photos of the modern-day Mitsubishi. Sorry.

As for the cigars, we stopped in a shop where Cohibas reigned king and where rum was plentiful. For many of you, that’ll sound like heaven. For others, bare with me for a second. Cubans tend to think of Cohibas as the perfect blended cigar where the high expense lies in centuries of tradition, skills on the farm, and we cannot forget about the premium quality of leaves. To be a professional Cohiba roller, a nine month course must be completed to prove your worth. No pressure there.

In order to buy these goodies for our boyfriends back home, we needed cash since the nation is cash-only. What you take in paper to Cuba is what you get. Plan wisely! Two types of currency exist in Cuba, the Cuban peso (CUP) and the Cuban convertible peso (CUC). Both are legal dual-currency on the island, though the complicated system is under scrutiny as most Cubans are paid in CUP while consumer goods are priced in CUC, the latter being the favorable of the two.

Rows of Havana Club and Malibu Rum haunted me from my high school days, but there’s an even better local ritual to be had where rum is involved. I had heard talk of rum-in-a-box and couldn’t wait to try it out, as I suspected it would be exactly how it sounds. Sure enough, it was! Much like the concept and ease of Franzia, there exists this bad boy for 1 CUC:

What to See & Do in Cuba

Malecón – This may look like just a bare wall to many, but the Malecón means opportunity to the Cubans in Havana. It’s where the wall meets the sea, a popular meeting place where locals come to hang out, play guitar, drink rum in a box, make out, sell popcorn, meet new people, exercise, or whatever they damn well please…and I was so pleased to experience it. Around midnight, you’d be hard pressed to find a seat!

Habana Vieja (Old Havana) – Being one of my favorite parts of the city, this area is chock-full of history. If walls could talk… and then, I actually got to thinking about “what-ifs…” such as what if we had the chance to hang out with Ernest Hemingway over mojitos and cohibas? What if we conveniently missed our flight home?!

Art Gallery of Kamyl Bullaudey – Better than shopping, better than getting my first taste of Cuban beer was visiting artist Kamyl’s studio. Nice enough to show us around and paint individual portraits of us, Kamyl wasn’t your average painter. The more time I spent with him, the more I gathered that he was a big damn deal. I was in the presence of a talented influencer in the Cuban community who just painted my portrait five different times (four of which I’m still not sure why, probably because he could and was good at it) and who I was conversing with in Spanish at a rapid pace, which meant I was only comprehending around 60% because this man spoke with great speed.

Callejon de Hamel – In Central Havana, Callejón de Hamel is one of the shortest streets in the city but by far the most vibrant. Multicolored murals, sculptures and amazing rumba music had me at first glance and dance. The locals are incredibly passionate about what they’re doing for the community project dedicated to Afro-Cuban dance and religious culture. After doing some exploring, my fellow explorer Ellen and I found an abandoned bathtub in the middle of a field. Originally published on Instagram as an extension of my #tubtravels, I found it very funny to hear that readers thought I was actually taking a bath. I’ll save those for the resorts! And for the record, I very much had clothes on – you just can’t see them from this angle 😉

Parque de La Revolucion – Here we have a famous park where sculptures and historical buildings are in abundance, such as the Cuban Museum of Bellas Artes. Many people come to see the cars, making for some great photo ops.

San Jose Market – Get your CUCs ready. It’s time to shop! The open-air market is the best spot for buying local crafts and souvenirs like my crochet one-piece and panama hat. This shop owner decided she was going to dress me in my new swimsuit, over my dress, right then and there. She wasn’t taking no for an answer, obviously. Persistence is key – I bought the suit in the end.

Ernest Hemingway House – Because I visited during a holiday weekend, Hemingway’s house was sadly closed. Also known as Finca Vigia, the house is now home to the Museo Hemingway, and you don’t have to be a fan of Ernest Hemingway’s writing style to appreciate a visit.

Where to Stay in Havana

Saratoga Hotel – First thing’s first. Beyonce stayed here, so yeah. You know I had to check it out. Its beautiful rooftop and equally as beautiful bar will have you ordering Cuba Libres until you think you’re fluent in Spanish, which I may or may not be. Depends on the day.

Hotel Melia Cohiba – Located directly on the Malecón, you can’t get a better location than this.

Hotel Nacional de Cuba – The famous hotel that everyone hears about has a glamorous lobby scene, but it stops here. The rooms…well let’s just say you’ll be coming here for the mojitos while staying elsewhere.

Meet The Team

You’re only as good as the people you surround yourself with, and Francis Harrison (President and Founder) has managed to get a solid team behind her in order to make Conscious Cuba what it is today – a worthwhile luxury agency providing VIP experiences for its clients. To educate us from the moment we arrived in Miami was Colleen, an American tour guide so passionate about Cuba, her excitement was infectious. I wasn’t even on the plane yet and I couldn’t wait to see, smell, taste and hear the sounds of the city. Natalia and José, our local Cuban guides, were nothing short of exceptional. There to bring home the authenticity and Cuban flavor, they had us salsa dancing into the night, literally. Hearing their stories about growing up on the island and being able to communicate in their language created a bond I hope never severs.

Heading to the airport, I began thinking back on the past few days in Cuba and what made the biggest impact, then it suddenly came to me: acceptance not only within the Cuban community, but acceptance from the Cubans themselves. As an American citizen visiting their turf, their country, after all of the severed ties, after all this time, after the new discussions and better relations, they still treat everyone with respect and gratitude for visiting. Perhaps we can learn something from the Cuban people, I thought…

Many thanks to the Cuban people for showing me the beauty that’s been locked away for too many years. More people should be able to experience its potential and allow it to thrive beautifully.

Fun Facts on Cuba

If you see Havana spelled ‘Habana,’ that’s not a typo. That’s how the locals do it.
Most travelers to Cuba are from Spain and Canada (soon to be Americans..)
Parks become what dilapidated buildings once were, and the environmentalist in me likes this a lot.
The national dish is roasted pork with rice and beans not far behind.
The national beverages are mojitos as well as the popular Cristal and Bucanero beers. Yes, more popular than agua.
Cuba is a cash-only nation. Yep, nuts.
If you bought a plane ticket from the U.S. (ABC Charters), Americans have health insurance while in Cuba.
Only $100 worth of tobacco products is allowed to be brought into the U.S.
Thanks to Raúl Castro, Cubans can now sell real estate as well as hold one of 90 jobs available, one being a banana peeler.
On July 20th, the U.S. and Cuba reopened their embassies in Havana and D.C., heralding a “new chapter” in relations after a half-century of hostility. Travel restrictions have eased and Cuba has been removed from the U.S. terror blacklist, making them eligible to attend international conferences, have better access to global markets and be involved in world political decisions.
On the people-to-people license, visitors can not visit the beaches. I repeat, can NOT visit the beaches.
Like many things in LatAm, the Cuban Sandwich is hardly consistent in Cuba. You’ll get something different every time. The Cuban sandwich has mutated as it has migrated from the mother country. What you get in south Florida isn’t what you get in Cuba. And good luck finding any pickles – the nation doesn’t have any.
WiFi isn’t really a thing in Cuba. Just sit back, relax, and enjoy being disconnected for a few days.
American flag apparel is all the rage right now. Fashion sense matters, and my Disney Princess Vans got me around Cuba juuuust fine 😉

The Road Les Traveled was welcomed to Cuba as a guest of Conscious Cuba, however my opinions are as always, my own.

The Prettiest Place I’ve Ever Seen: Switzerland via Rail, Part Three

September 1, 2015 by lesleymurphy 14 Comments

“The journey is much more important than the destination.”

The Itinerary: Switzerland (via Germany)

While Copenhagen was chilly, my heart was on fire for Denmark. Its sweets, coffees, and lovely locals had me forgetting that I’d only brought jeans and a hoodie for warmth. But just like that, it was sadly time to leave Scandinavia, a region made up of Norway, Sweden and Denmark where I fell so much deeper in love with train travel.

Next up on the itinerary was Switzerland, but not before I spent eight hours drinking beer in Hamburg, Germany while on a layover. Altes Mädchen is the perfect place to settle in for some burgers and brews. The biergarten serves different varieties from around the world as well as its own varieties. The establishment is only two stops from Hamburg Hauptbahnhof (Central Station) on the subway, but beware: Germany Central Station is crazy in every sense of the word – crowds, confusion, parties, booze, and whatever else the Germans please. Visitors on a layover can store their luggage in a locker near platform 5/6 by a bakery stand. Just make sure you have coins – I didn’t, but the nicest group of drunk Germans came to my rescue. Thanks, guys! Prost!

Inspiration for the hamburger came from Hamburg, so of course I ordered one!

From Hamburg I took an overnight train to Zurich which was a unique experience. I was in my very own deluxe sleeper car (with sleeping aid in hand) but as it turned out, I slept very well that night rocking back and forth with the gentle twists and turns of the train. There wasn’t any Wi-Fi on board, so I took a breather from my computer and phone while I watched the German sun set out my window before bed. I highly recommend overnight trains in order to save daylight hours for sightseeing!

From Zurich, I immediately went to St. Moritz via one of the most beautiful train rides I’ve ever experienced. I was like a mad woman onboard this car, going from right side to left side snapping pictures and videos like crazy. Thankfully there was nobody in my entire row which gave me free range to bounce back and forth like a ping pong ball.

If you’re looking for glamor, charm, ambience, excitement and the opportunity to ski in one of the most fashionable areas of the Swiss Alps or, perhaps, even the world, head to St. Moritz. The sun shines on this ritzy destination an average of 322 days a year, making it a good option during summer and the ever popular winter months. You don’t ski? Perhaps you kite-surf then. Try you skills out with these pros!

Funny story about the photo above. Apparently there are two Waldhaus hotels in St. Moritz and I tried checking into the wrong one. Luckily, that 45 minute detour led me to the lake pictured above where I witnessed some incredible scenery! Like I said previously, the journey is much more important than the destination. Just so you know: Head to the Waldhaus am See Hotel, the perfect spot to take in the city on the waterfront.

After relaxing in St. Moritz for a few days, I was beyond excited to finally arrive in Zermatt, Switzerland for a few reasons: #1 – to see the famous Matterhorn, #2 – to arrive via the world’s slowest express train: the Glacier Express! #3 – you don’t need any more reasons.

All I needed to do was show my Swiss Travel Pass and I was onboard the world’s most scenic train ride for the next 9 hours. That may scare some of you – to be on a train for 9 hours during the middle of the day. I was apprehensive myself, but between the jaw-dropping scenery, the three-course gourmet meal served for lunch and the most incredible office space I could ask for, I was in Swiss heaven.

I can only imagine the scene during winter – blanketed white landscapes, dreamy rolling hills below dramatic clouds packed with snow…the stuff of fairytales. Well, so was summertime. I lived it in First Class of car 22, seat 21. You don’t get these views from a plane:

More Swiss people ride trains every year than any other nationality out there. I would, too, if the passing landscapes looking like this. More than 200,000 people experience the Glacier Express each year as well, and for good reason. If you can spare the time, and you should, this day will be more memorable than any long-haul flight. The most memorable part? My first Matterhorn viewing.

To meet me at the train station was Amandé Perrig, and to say he knew everything about Zermatt and its surroundings was an understatement. He’s climbed the Matterhorn more than most, he’s skied the Swiss Alps into Italy countless times, and he knew just about everyone who passed us as we began our tour of the city.

The area has only 6,000 locals but come winter and summer peak times, the place lights up with tourists to bask in the wintery mix and fresh mountain air. You can ski year-round in Zermatt as the tip top slopes have ski on them 365 days of the year. I decided to wait until I could property do the mountain justice and make snow angels all over the city. What surprised me the most about this slice of paradise was that it’s a car-free city. The only “cars” allowed are small electric buggies used by hotels for transport purposes.

Zermatt tips: Try raclette. It’s a type of semi-hard cheese originating in Switzerland that will leave your tastebuds craving more until your return. Stay at the SCHLOSSHOTEL, a lovely establishment tucked away behind a quiet street right off the main square. Ask for a room with a view of the Matterhorn. Lastly, wake up early to make a Matterhorn sunrise viewing. At 5:15am, take the Sunnegga Express up to Sunnegga and then change to the gondolas up to the peak Rothorn. The unforgettable play of colors combined with the unique panorama of the Rothorn makes sunrise truly a unique experience. Alpine breakfast buffet at the cosy restaurant is waiting.

My stay in Zermatt coincided with the 150 anniversary of the Matterhorn’s first accent by Englishman Edward Whymper and two mountain guides from Zermatt. It was a dramatic affair as four other members of the roped team were killed on the descent when one slipped and pulled the other three with him down the north face. The three survivors were later accused of having cut the rope below to ensure that they were not dragged down with the others, and it’s a mystery that’s still talked about today.

The Swiss city commemorated the anniversary by lighting up the route taken (Hoerneli ridge) by the first explorers on their quest to conquer the mountain. The energy was so electric during the celebrations that I almost didn’t board my train to Geneva. I bought a Toblerone (the candy is in the shape of the Matterhorn!) for the ride and told myself I’d soon return.

Geneva was a dream, mostly due to my accommodations where “no request is too large, and no detail too small.” I’m referring to the Hotel d’Angleterre that boasts a prime location in front of Lake Geneva and the Jet d’Eau.

My Exclusive Lake Room was oh so comfortable, and with traditional afternoon tea overlooking the lake alongside the chic Leopard Bar, one thing was certain: it was hard to go beyond the hotel’s front doors. I had everything I needed, but Geneva was waiting.

Throughout my few days, I explored the waterways and nature-filled areas of Geneva. I had no idea I could be in the old town surrounded by an ancient maze of small streets and picturesque squares one minute and in the middle of lush green forests the next. Take these outdoor scenes for example.

Locals flock to the river to bask in the summer sun. I love the laid-back vibe of this city. Some visitors will misconstrue the relaxed scene for boredom, but Geneva’s beauty and close proximity to ridiculously gorgeous attractions will have me coming back for more. Until next time, Switzerland!