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Torres del Paine, the Jewel of Chilean Patagonia

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The drive in from El Calafate was less than comfortable, but when you’re heading to the end of the world, you can’t expect sleeper buses and smooth asphalt. It should also be noted that if you’re traveling to Torres del Paine from El Calafate, Argentina, smuggling fruit into Chile is impossible. The frightening men dressed in all black with three different pistols attached to their belts search every car entering the country with dogs trained to sniff out even the faintest scent of apple. Long story short, I had to spend time declaring my apple to then throw said apple in the trash. Efficiency isn’t really Chile’s thing. But nobody cared. Cue my head ricocheting off the window of the Explora van, and all I was after was that unparalleled view. I quickly traded Grey’s Anatomy on my iPad for the multi-colored peaks of the Torres. The view in front of us silenced the car. I couldn’t form a sentence, in part by the beauty that stood before me, but also partly due to the fact that I thought I was going to have to climb that sucker. Hello, death. Nice to meet you. My barely broken-in hiking boots were ready for round two, but not that ready.

After entering the National Park and driving for half an hour among what I’m positive is the most serene scene on the planet, it almost came as a shock when we spotted our big, white eco-hotel in the distance. Explora Patagonia’s Salto Chico hotel was nothing short of fabulous. I loathe the words “all-inclusive hotel” because they remind me of an unescapable cruise ship or a freshman year spring break in Mexico, but for one large lump sum, you can eat as many fresh meals and drink as many pisco sours and trek as many mountains and ride however many horses as you damn well please. After somehow lucking out and checking into a corner suite for four glorious days and nights at the southernmost tip of the world, I decided that this was my place. After trekking for 5 full days straight (1 on Perito Moreno and 4 in Torres), calves so sore even a massage would be crippling, I knew I was going to return one day. Even after I almost started crying because my thighs weren’t up for the damn near 90 degree uninterrupted incline, Glacier Gray and Lake Pehoe were just so worth it.

Looking around and noticing my boyfriend and I were the youngest by 30 years didn’t matter. It gave me more hope that retirement looked real good. But until that happens, we’ll celebrate life, travel, and love with polar bear plunges into Lake Pehoe. Mark my words, though…sometime in the far off future, my days and nights will consist of guzzling Patagonia beers and hardly taking my eyes off of the Torres. By that age, my trekking boots will be long covered in dust, and that’s okay by me.

 | Day & Night |

Daytime events in Patagonia:

  • Half day or full day treks via Explora’s guides
  • Horse rides from the best trained horses in the world, or so they claim
  • Hot tub soaks on Lake Pehoe
  • All day spa day at Explora

Nighttime events in Patagonia:

  • Eating an extremely fresh, delectable dinner at Explora’s hotel Salto Chico
  • Pisco Sours at the bar
  • Sleep
  • Sleep
  • Sleep

| Cost Breakdown |

Explora Patagonia:

Let me preface this by saying Explora Patagonia is all-inclusive, without the slightest slack in quality. Seeking disconnection from everyday routine, they like to leave the bills behind. An upfront payment of $3,000 is required in order to explore the southernmost tip of the world for 4 glorious nights. This adventure includes:

  • All meals and alcohol
  • All exploration activities
  • Pick up and drop off at the airport, which isn’t close
  • Relaxing areas, wifi in public areas, and national park entrance fees

| Seasons |

The best time to experience this magical setting is from October to April, which is spring (~64 degrees) and summer (~68 degrees) in the southern hemisphere. Torres del Paine National Park is open all year round, however, so if you have the balls to try your hand at winter (~43 degrees) in the southernmost tip of the world, by all means…

Intense winds are common inside the park, creating gusts of up to 70mph at times. In only minutes, the winds can darken the sky or even disperse the storm clouds.

| In Hindsight |

If you know anything about hotels in or near the Torres del Paine National Park, you know that Explora’s Salto Chico is everything. I have zero regrets or critiques. They are a well oiled machine. Ehh, mmmaybe I would’ve rested between hikes as it was hard to move a single muscle after day 5, but even still… no regrets.

How to Tackle a Growing Patagonian Glacier

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My boyfriend and I set out for El Calafate, Argentina, at the end of February over Carnaval weekend. I’m not sure there’s a more atypical Carnaval than a trip to Patagonia. The samba and debauchery would have to wait for the FIFA World Cup 2014, and I was okay with that. Overpacked yet underprepared for what we were about to see, we set out for southern skies. Arriving in the lobby of El Esplendor, we were thrown into a beautiful rustic chic setting. After further exploration, however, it was very apparent that the fine linens and elaborate decor of the lobby was simply a facade, not venturing past the one room. Cuarto 306 didn’t have A/C – an oversight most likely only on floor 3, I thought. Wishful thinking. If one room is void of aire condicionado, all rooms are void of aire condicionado. We had two nights of uncomfortable sleep ahead of us that a few fans from the fake nice lobby and pure exhaustion from trekking could help with.

The next morning we boarded a bus with our 50 closest Argentine amigos and ventured towards Perito Moreno – one of only three glaciers that is actually growing. Today I was going to hike a glacier in Patagonia. Beat that, Bear Grylls. My brand new hiking shoes and I were going to sip sweet whiskey atop a glacier and live to brag (and Instagram) about it. That’s just the thing though – if you have to buy hiking shoes for a hiking trip, you probably aren’t a huge hiker. Should’ve broken the damn things in before hiking for four days straight, but hindsight is 20/20 and I brought along a brand new box of Band-Aids to accompany my brand new boots. Thank you, mind.

After a two hour drive through some windy terrain, we had arrived. My fleece-lined ski pants and three jackets may have been a little overkill as it was 65 degrees that day. Global warming is real. After shedding some layers, Wade and I broke from the group with cameras around our necks like geeked-out tourists and shot every angle one could possibly shoot of this massive block of ice. Who knew glaciers were blue?! Not I. Picture hundreds of people gathered round a large tiered deck just staring at this stationary ice mass. It was that captivating, though…and all I could think about in that moment was Titanic. How the hell did the captains not spot the damn iceberg? HOW?! Massive twentieth century fail. And I digress. After about an hour of only being able to view it and failing at coming up with witty Instagram captions (Ice, Ice Baby) we boarded a boat that took us closer. We strapped on some crampons (chuckle) and it was finally time.

I’ll never forget my first step onto that glacier – I was like a new baby giraffe in those crampons, limbs and curse words flailing about, but just as our single file line of tourists grew, so did my confidence. Ten minutes in and I was ready to run a marathon in those crampons. Strap spikes on my shoes and call me The Bladerunner. Too soon? Nah. The next hour and a half was filled with oohhs and aahhs as we drank from natural streams in the ice and stepped over plunging crevasses. It was around this point when I asked our guide if anybody had ever fallen in. He looked around nervously as if he was already regretting his future confession that one guy had fallen in on the company’s watch. This particular trekker was unusually large for someone on this strenuous excursion, though, and his large body mass wedged between the two ice walls and he ended up being saved by the very thing that could’ve killed him. I suppose the delicacies of red meat and redder wine had this guy seeing another day.

Just as I was realizing that I had seen all the ice I could see for one day, our next turn manifested a whiskey station. Alfajores and whiskey in glacier ice put a smile on my face and a pep in my step. Okay okay, I could handle some more ice today if whiskey was a component. After some shots it was time to take my beloved crampons off. I had become attached over the course of the afternoon. Maybe this meant more trekking was in my future, maybe it meant that I just felt like a badass with spikes on my shoes. Either way, the two hour bus ride back to El Esplendor was spent looking at these pictures, and wondering how I was going to survive another night of stagnant, humid heat in a room void of A/C.

 | Day & Night |

El Calafate is almost always the starting point for glacier trekking and climbing on Perito Moreno, Fitz Roy and El Chaltén. That being said, don’t spend a ton of time inside the city of El Calafate.

Daytime events near El Calafate:

  • Perito Moreno Mini-Trek or Big Ice Trek

Nighttime events in El Calafate:

  • Dinner out on the town – eat the lamb
  • Ice cream and Patagonian chocolates for dessert
  • Sleep

| Cost Breakdown |

El Calafate / Perito Moreno (based on 2 people):

  • Airport Transfer to Hotel El Esplendor: $50
  • 2 night stay at Hotel El Esplendor: $180 USD
  • Meals while in El Calafate: $145 USD
  • Mini Trekking with Hielo y Aventura (transportation included): $200 USD/per person
  • Entrance fee into the park: $25 USD/per person
  • Chocolate Factory Takeaways: $40 USD
    • TOTAL: $765 USD / ~393/person
  • El Calafate/Patagonia is known for their chocolates and lamb. Indulge in both when visiting!

| Seasons |

The best time to experience this magical setting is from October to April, which is spring (~64 degrees) and summer (~68 degrees) in the southern hemisphere. Perito Moreno National Park is closed during winter.

Intense winds are common inside the park, creating gusts of up to 70mph at times. In only minutes, the winds can darken the sky or even disperse the storm clouds.

| In Hindsight |

Patagonia has a cool breeze in the summer which is why the vast majority of hotels don’t have A/C. I require the air to feel somewhat like the inside of a refrigerator when I sleep, which is why it came as a major let down when Hotel El Esplendor didn’t have A/C. Two nights of sleeping with your head next to a wind tunnel (or borrowed fan) isn’t what you’re looking for after a full day of trekking.

1. Book a hotel room with A/C in El Calafate.

It’s hard to predict just how warm or cool you’ll be once actually on the glacier. The day we hiked, it was a cool 65 degrees. I was told to dress in layers, which is exactly what I did… sort of. Long story short, fleece lined ski pants were a bad choice.

2. Wear lighter bottom layers on Perito Moreno.

Trekking for many days straight does a body good, but it hurts. A lot. The day after trekking Perito Moreno, we went straight into a hike in Torres del Paine directly after arriving, and then another 3 full days after that. So athletic, I know. No matter the age group, a break is welcomed.

3. Take a break after hiking for a couple of days. Your body will thank you, instead of barely being able to move.

The Beginning

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Starting is the hardest part. I think that holds true for a lot of things in life. Starting a term paper. Starting a job. Starting a reality TV show application. Starting an adventure overseas. Starting a blog. It’s the unknown that scares people. But fear is for people who don’t get out much, and me, I’ve learned to get out much.

It’s taken me over a year to start a blog. And for the record, I loathe the word ‘blog.’ I’d call it something different, but at that point it becomes unclear of what exactly ‘it’ is. So we’re just going to call a spade a spade, and thus, a blog a blog. I moved to Buenos Aires, Argentina, in September of 2013 with 2 1/2 bags and my high-school level spanish knowledge. Note to self: should’ve studied harder. My Fort Smith, Arkansas, education is top-notch but nothing challenges your Spanish III skills quite like landing at EZE in Buenos Aires, Argentina.

Over the past 10 months I’ve been managing a marketing team at a luxury hospitality company with destinations all over the Americas. Think Airbnb’s chicer, older sister with an on-the-ground concierge and party-time Clubhouses to schmooze at once the sun goes down. Not a bad gig, but I’ve lusted after the stunning rental properties for so long now that nothing less than a 3-story penthouse will do. I’m screwed. It’s also given me perspective on working with different cultures and people, maneuvering language barriers, and helping to achieve success for a start-up company I truly believe in, something that I enjoy waking up for every day. I consider this “blog” a segue into that same happiness.

The luxury travel industry is changing. It’s highly subjective and constantly evolving, but I do know the good stuff when I see it. I also know that I do my own research, I write my own words, I take my own pictures, and I form my own opinions. My own experiences that are shown on this “blog” will hopefully inspire YOU, the reader, to do something different and authentic with so much of my insider knowledge you won’t know what to do with yourself. See what The Road Les Traveled holds.

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