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Travel Tag: Andean Lodges’ Ausangate Trek + Peru’s Rainbow Mountain

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We first saw it on Instagram. A mountain made up of all the colors of the rainbow. After a bit of research, we came to find out its name was in fact Rainbow Mountain. The only way to get to this corner of the earth is to complete the Ausangate Trek. Immediately, I knew I had to go.

We worked it into the final portion of our 7-week South America tour with LATAM Airlines. Yep, we saved the best portion for last with the best tour operator around – Andean Lodges. The 5 day/4 night trek would take us to some of the most amazing landscapes I’ve witnessed to-date. It’s important to note here that while Machu Picchu is an incredible sight to see, Peru has various out-of-this-world landscapes. I urge you to see more and do more in Peru.

This article is about to get long, so bear with me. Grab some coffee, tea, beer, wine, hard liquor… we’re about to spend some quality time together 😉

Hiking the Apu Trail

To us, the concept of the trek was simple: hike from lodge to lodge while witnessing some of the most stunning landscapes in the world. For the Quechua people of the Andean region, their home was far more than a walk in the park. Ausangate is an “Apu”, or a sacred mountain. At 6,384 meters (20,944 feet), it’s the highest in the area, making it the most sacred of all the Apus. During our time in their homeland, here’s a breakdown of what happened:

  • Total Distance Covered: 40.83 km (25.3 mi)
  • Max Altitude: 5,200m (17,060 ft)
  • Minimum Altitude: 3,877m (12,720 ft)

Day 1 – Cusco to Chillca Lodge at 14,331 ft.

We started the journey in the car driving three hours to the base of the Peruvian Andes where lunch was served. Dessert consisted of chewing on coca leaves, an ailment for headaches and stomach problems (read: altitude sickness). After we were well fed and mouths were stuffed full of coca leaves, we started our first hike which totaled 3.3km from the drop-off point to the first lodge. A road trip + seated lunch + easy hike? I could get used to this. Oh, how things were about to change…

After hiking through a flat route alongside the Quencomayo River, hundreds of llamas and alpacas appeared. Even though I was feeling a bit ill due to the first signs of altitude sickness, I was so excited to be surrounded by all of this wildlife! We even ran into a few school children who we couldn’t communicate with, but smiles are universal.

We arrived to the lodge at around 4pm, a time I looked forward to every day as this would typically mean rest and relaxation. At an altitude of 14,331 ft, we did exactly that. Orlando Garcia, the Community leader of Chillca, was there to greet welcome us inside and handed us gifts in the form of alpaca slippers. We would take these to all 4 lodges, and I would wear them to bed with me every night. A true luxury!

That night, I sat as close to the fire as humanly possible without actually getting inside the fire. The lodges are very comfortable with homemade meals and comfy beds, but no heating system (or electricity in general) is in place. We slept in about 35 degree weather each night. Thankfully, the Community staff put hot water bottles inside our beds to help us fall asleep in the cold. I am so thankful that Wade came along – you’ll want/need as much body heat as possible here! Speaking of the cold, our electronics got just as cold as we did. They die faster in extreme temperatures, and no electricity means no charging. Interesting. So how did we overcome this obstacle? We brought multiple batteries and slept with all of them (and our phones!) in our pockets every night to keep them warm. Comfortable, right? Mmmhmmm. It’s a small price to pay for being able to capture the surroundings the next day.

Day 2: Chillca to Machuracay at 15,797 ft.

We had an alarm clock every morning in the form of a Community member singing us awake in their native language. It was actually quite a refreshing way to wake up – much better than my iPhone alarm if I do say so myself! The actual quality of sleep was marginal that night at best.  I got strangely warm and woke up various times to catch my breath. We had a lot less oxygen to work with at such high altitudes, but with day break came breakfast at 6:30am each day. By the time we defrosted our extremities and pulled on two more layers for the day, we had a hot bowl of quinoa oatmeal in front of us!

We walked from 7:30am – 2pm that day for 9km. At 2:05pm, it started snowing. Things were about to get interesting. I thought I remembered buying waterproof hiking boots, but we were about to put that theory to the test.

Lunch consisted of soup and Spanish tortillas, as if an omelette and a pancake had a baby. Delicious in my book, but what wouldn’t be after an entire morning of trekking? We walked (read: jumped) through beautiful marshes full of Yareta moss which left me feeling like I just beat a level in Super Mario Bros., most likely contributing to the dull headache I felt all day from low oxygen. You better believe I stuffed my mouth so full of coca leaves, I could barely speak.

As 2pm rolled around, we saw the lodge, a beautiful spectacle underneath a hanging glacier. Coming in at 4,800 meters high, Machuracay is the highest lodge in Peru, and one of the highest lodges in the world.

Day 3: Machuracay to Anantapata at 15,584 ft.

This was a rough day for me. I laughed. I cried. I was in awe of extreme landscapes. It was an emotional rollercoaster to say the very least. I think the llamas probably agreed.

After breakfast we did an offering to Pachamama, a goddess known to the indigenous people of the Andes as Mother Earth, asking to protect on our journey. The process involves collecting sweets and coca leaves. Each person takes four coca leaves and blows on them in the direction of each mountain peak while thinking good thoughts. The leaves are then collected with the other offerings and set on fire.

Afterwards, we started our hour and a half ascent in deep snow. If you’re wondering about my hiking boots, it turns out one of them was waterproof, the other not so much. How does that even happen?! I hiked the entire day with one soaking wet foot, while the remainder of the days started by wrapping a plastic bag around that foot to act as a makeshift umbrella. You do what you gotta do when you’re in the middle of nowhere.

As we climbed Palomani Pass, the highest of the trek at 5,150 meters, I kept thinking to myself: it ain’t about how fast I get there, it ain’t about what’s waitin’ on the other side, It’s the climb. Thankfully, Miley Cyrus got me through that pass, and we were given this view:

Then it was downhill from there through snow and mud to Narnia. When I say Narnia, picture Willy Wonka’s chocolate river with vivid colors set on high saturation all around.

Wade and I decided we wanted an alternative view of this incredible scenery, so we left the group and hiked along Ausangate Cocha Lake. I ended up getting eaten alive by mosquitoes and then sealing my bad fate by falling into a river. Make that two non-waterproof boots now. At least my soaking wet feet and I were able to eat chicken noodle soup for lunch afterwards. It was immediately after those gluttonous 10 minutes that I was zapped of all energy. We still had 8km left of trekking through hail and mud, and that’s when the tears started. It’s easy to see my pain and unenthusiastic nature in the below photo. I only wish we had service that day so I could have broadcasted my mood on Snapchat for all to see. It would have been one for the books.

We arrived to the lodge around 4:30pm wet and exhausted and at an altitude of 4,700m. ‘Challenging’ doesn’t even seem an appropriate word to sum up the day. I sat in front of the fire drying my clothes (and boots) until dinner, which consisted of Peru and Chinese food mixed together with flan. The lodge was colder than the previous night which I didn’t think was possible. There was an argument about this, since the night before was spent right next to glacier at the highest altitude, so that should’ve been the coldest. Whatever. Both were cold as shit, so I grabbed Wade and my hot water bottle and headed for bed.

Day 4: Anantapata to Huampococha at 15,748 ft.

Rainbow Mountain Day was finally upon us. This is what we were here for! Morale was a lot higher this day, until we got word that it might rain at noon, right when we were scheduled to get to the mountain…

After our breakfast of quinoa with apple and cinnamon, we started kilometer 1 out of 11. We walked and we walked and we walked some more until we saw it. Vinicunca, affectionately known as Rainbow Mountain. The pastel colors in a layered pattern appeared like a dream, exactly like what I’d seen in photos. That view would only get worse as we climbed closer and fog and ferocious wind settled in. What do you do about it? Pose like Vanna White, I suppose.

Sometimes you get great views. Sometimes, you don’t. It couldn’t have been worse weather when we got to Vinicunca that day – hail, wind and blizzards obstructing our precious view we trekked so far to see. I was determined to stick it out. When the hell would I be back here, in this exact spot, gazing at this painted mountain?! After enduring what seemed like an eternity of hail and harsh winds (which was probably only about 20 minutes), the weather started to clear and the views became even better and more dramatic.

What was probably the most mind-blowing realization of that day wasn’t the Rainbow Mountains. Instead it came afterwards. I’d only ever seen the view of that one colored peak. Nobody ever talked about what came after it, which in my mind was even more dramatic and photogenic. Painted hills of red and green were before us, all dressed up in their Christmas best, begging us to take a photo as if it was tired of being overshadowed by a less exciting previous viewpoint. These went on for miles, and I thought the only appropriate way to celebrate this part of the world was to make a sand angel and bask in all its glory. Really, my feet just needed a break, and a damn good one it was.

We ate lunch in a tent that day in the most beautiful surroundings I could ever conjure up for a lunch meeting. Veggie soup and causas laid before us as vicunas roamed the mountains peaks beyond us.

We ended the day at 4,780m, basically the same as we started. I don’t know if it was the fact that we only had one day left, or if the veggie soup had been extra good that day, or my serotonin levels were just out of whack. It was as if the Narnia soundtrack went off in my head as we spotted the fourth and final lodge. It was my favorite out of them all, as they kept getting better and better as the days went on.

Offering panoramic views of Huampococha lagoon and snow-capped mountains in front, the lodge rests at the base of a type of aggro-crag or pride rock that points up the sky. Wade and I found a high spot on a rock and hung out with the dogs and llamas that afternoon while going through the 876 pictures we took that day, not including iPhone or Osmo photos. We ended up taking over 20,000 photos in five days. TWENTY THOUSAND NOT INCLUDING IPHONE OR OSMO PHOTOS. Who do we think we are?? Some kind of Ausangate paparazzi I suppose. I hope the mountain was flattered.

Day 5: Huampococha to Cusco

As our 6am wake up call came in the form of a singing lady, I realized this was our last day in the mountains. It was bittersweet. My body was exhausted, my lungs tired of overcompensating for the lack of oxygen, and truth be told – I could use a cheeseburger. I’m a huge fan of quinoa, but t’was time for some meat. But first, pancakes.

Our breakfast of my favorite items included granola, yogurt and pancakes(!!!), and then we started what would be our final summit to 4,975m. We stopped for a while once we reached this point to enjoy the view one last time. I hadn’t been this far out of my comfort zone in quite a while, and I was thankful for that in this moment.

We then descended to 4000m to make for a total of 8km that final day. Before we reached the van that would take us on the 3 hour drive back to Cusco, we met a group of local craftswomen who had a beautiful display of hats, scarves, bags, and blankets we could purchase. The women work with alpaca wool and colors created from natural dye. I’m a sucker for scarves, so that happened.

We then said goodbye to everyone who made our trek so incredibly memorable and headed to Cusco. And by Cusco, I mean the airport. That’s right – we went from hiking 5 straight days in the mountains to boarding an international flight all the way back to Arkansas. That’s Cusco to Lima to Miami to Dallas to Little Rock all without a shower. I felt compelled to apologize to the passengers sitting next to me on the plane. How rude of me!

What to know

Off the bat, I was very impressed with how Andean Lodges ran their business. A staff member met us for a briefing the day before the trek, again on the morning of Day 1, offered to check us in for our flight upon departure and met us at the airport on day 5. Not only were they attentive and helpful, but they are also extremely involved with the community. It’s very much a partnership between Andean Lodges and the locals who helped build the lodges and aid in taking care of the guests each and every trek, whether it be cooking all meals or making fires to keep everyone warm. In total, Andean Lodges has helped secure over 70 jobs for the community. The community responded by sharing their culture and landscapes while providing proof of sustainable tourism development high in the Andes mountains.

I reserved an entire paragraph about our fearless guide, Daniel, alongside his beautiful wife Sara. I fully believe that a guide can make or break an entire experience for the whole group, and lucky for us Daniel made all of our wishes and dreams come true for this trek. I can’t imagine having to adapt and help all walks of life and personalities during a challenging 5 day mountain trek. PHEW. What a job! Daniel nor Sara batted an eye, and I’m so happy to have new friends to visit in Cusco upon my return. Daniel has also spent a good deal of time guiding in the Amazon, a trip I still have on my bucket list. The couple is also working on building domes in the Sacred Valley, available for an unforgettable night’s stay in 2017.

  • The weather can change in an instant. If it’s bad weather, you won’t be able to see much. Prepare yourself mentally and physically!
  • We took a route that no other agencies take which gave us a sense of seclusion. Andean Lodges is the only agency of its kind.
  • The lodges are not equipped with electricity, although hot water is available for showers from about 4pm-6pm daily. Hot water, hot meals and a warm bed are a luxury in these parts, and I was so happy to have them!
  • Eating by candlelight has never been so much fun.
  • There is a charging station at lodge #3.
  • A horse will accompany you during your trek. If you can’t carry your day pack during summits, you can give it to the nice horse. Llamas will leave after you in the morning with your bigger overnight bag, and somehow arrive to the next lodge before you that afternoon. It’s magic.
  • You get in from trekking anywhere from 2p – 4pm daily with snacks and coca tea awaiting your arrival.
  • Altitude sickness happens in the form of massive headaches and stomach aches. You can bring medication, but coca tea is best.
  • Nightly entertainment comes in the form of playing cards, dancing and harp playing by the locals!
  • With the impact of the 1 day tours, the locals are afraid this is going to drive out the vicuñas. Not having any infrastructure for the new 1 day tours means that people use the bathroom wherever and whenever, which isn’t good for environment. The only way to see this unique part of the world is with Andean Lodges.
  • While it’s possible to do the trek without a guide, I’d never recommend it. The trek is challenging and having a knowledgeable guide to explain Andean customs is part of the experience.
  • With several high passes over 5,000m, the Ausangate Trek is considered fairly difficult. The trek is classified as grade C which means the trek is fairly long and many sections are at high altitude.
  • The best time to hike Ausangate is during the dry months between May and September. The shoulder months of April and October are also pleasant.
  • Cost for the 5 day/4 night trek with Andean Lodges: $1,450

Where to stay in Cusco

It’s recommended to stay in Cusco for a minimum of three nights before embarking on such a trek. The JW Marriott in Cusco was beyond comfortable with an amazing staff and perfect location in the center of town.

What to pack

This can be tricky. Don’t worry about overpacking since you are given a small bag by Andean Lodges that can only fit a few changes of clothes alongside warm accessories like gloves, hats, scarves, rain jackets, etc. You can store your bigger suitcase or backpack in Andean Lodge’s storage room in Cusco.

A Quick Guide to Cusco, Peru

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Getting High in Peru

Cusco is one of my favorite cities in South America, but it comes with a downfall. Due to its elevation, altitude sickness is a real threat. Standing tall at over 11,000 feet high, many tourists find themselves the victims of massive headaches and stomach issues. My advice: quit the alcohol, drink lots of water, and chew tons of coca tea (found on every street corner in Cusco).

Where to Stay – JW Marriott Cusco

We have seriously lucked out with hotels during our last South American adventure. They somehow kept getting better and better. The JW Marriott Cusco is an incredibly special place with an authentic charm in the heart of Cusco.

The Room

Situated on the 3rd floor, our room was cozy with a plush king bed, big bright bathroom and a terrace overlooking the arched courtyard. The best part? We could request that oxygen be pumped inside our room if we were feeling under the weather due to the altitude. Swooooooon. Each and every night, turn-down service would leave a surprise for us once we returned from exploring. Wine, cheese, chocolates, tea, the list of goodies goes on. This place is move-in ready and I’m willing to commit!

The Location

Situated a block from Plaza de Armas, the JW is in a coveted location. The arched golden lobby sets the tone for a luxurious stay as guests are greeted with warm smiles and offers of coca tea from the bar.

The Food

My my MY. Where to begin? I know, I’ll start with the Peruvian ceviche. Why does food taste better when it’s inside a kitchen? I had the opportunity to go behind closed doors where the chefs work their magic. Executive Sous Chef Rely taught me how to make the best ceviche EVER. I didn’t know ceviche could be that good. I saw a lot of secrets go down in that kitchen (i.e. always mix the ingredients with ice to keep everything cool during the process. I don’t even know if that’s a secret, but it was news to me!), and I’m forever grateful. One day I’m going to recreate the dish…when I actually have a home with a kitchen and real people things. Living out of a suitcase gets you far in miles, not far in being a good cook.

On another evening, Wade and I made our way to the bar for drinks where Daniel so graciously fed us every kind of empanada under the sun. Consider dinner plans out the window when all-you-can-eat empanadas come on the table. Alongside those incredibly tasty empanadas were hand-crafted concoctions to be placed on the new JW drink menu – and we were the guinea pigs (Peru pun intended).

1) Nigroni Beetroot, Campari // Potion 4 – for antioxidants

2) Smoked Cinnamon, Pisco, Apple Sour // Potion 10 – cancer prevention

3) Camomile Old Fashion, Bourbon // Potion 11 – for relaxation

Turns out, Jdub makes their own sodas, too, of which I downed in mere seconds. I blame the savory empanadas for this beautiful mess going on in my stomach. Obviously I went to bed fat and happy that night.

The Staff

I’ve just raved about the location, grounds and food, but JW Marriott’s staff really made the experience stand out. Special thanks to Daniel, Thais, Victoria and Chef Rely for the food & beverage hospitality, and to Freddy the bartender for teaching me how to make the world’s best pisco sour.

What to Do

  • Spend time adjusting to the altitude
  • Cristo Blanco – a large statue of Jesus Christ that can be seen across the city. Great sunset view.
  • ChocoMuseo – Does it get better than a chocolate museum? Location in the heart of Cusco’s city center, I don’t know why you wouldn’t stop in here for some treats!
  • San Pedro Market – Biggest market in the city with stalls and stalls of clothing, handicrafts, accessories, foods, drinks…the list goes on. You are free to haggle here.
  • Feria Artesanal “San Francisco” – Before you hit San Pedro when walking up from Plaza de Armas, you’ll pass a much smaller market located off the bustling street. LOVE.
  • Go on a short tour through the JW Marriott ruins.
  • Say hi to the locals and their pet llamas and goats. They are all over the city center. Don’t be surprised when they expect some coins in exchange for a fun moment.
  • Iglesia Santo Domingo – Church on a mountain near Plaza de Armas. It’s a hike, but nothing crazy. Beautiful view with few people around.
  • Brunch at Cicciolina
  • Lunch or dinner at PER.UK for good veggie empanadas, veggie ceviche and beet salad if you’re in the mood for some greens.
  • Dinner at Fallen Angel for tasty Alpaca and chocolate martinis.
  • Pisco sours and views at Limbus Restobar in San Blas. Something of a trek but well worth it for the pano view of Cusco.
  • Day trips – Machu Picchu, Sacred Valley, Pisac, the Andean countryside.. don’t forget that there’s so much more to Peru than the tourist attractions you see time and time again (a foreshadowing for what’s to come on The Road Les Traveled…)
  • Machu Picchu Information

Airport

The Alejandro Velasco Astete International Airport airport is small in size but big in crowds. This is one of the most visited areas on the continent of South America, so people – tourists, taxi drivers, hoteliers – are everywhere. If you get quoted anything above 20 Peruvian Soles to go from the airport to your hotel in the city center, you’re paying too much.

If you’re a nervous flyer, try to occupy your time by doing something other than looking out the window during the final approach. The pilot is made to make an insane hairpin turn between mountains and land at one of the world’s highest commercial airports, over 11,000 feet up in the Peruvian Andes!

That One Time I Slept In A Capsule On The Side Of A Mountain

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Getting In

We left our bags behind in Cusco and began our two-hour drive north. Up until this point, I hadn’t had a lot of time to think about this climb, this night on the side of a cliff. We’d been traveling nonstop for well over a month now, and my camera and I were tired. There’s no telling how many photos I’d taken up to that point, but we needed to recharge. And fast. The world’s only Million Star Hotel was about to demand its close up.

We arrived to the base of a mountain around 3:45pm. Only a small shed was in sight with some equipment and attached zipline cables. A man came out and introduced himself as Guillermo. He’d be our guide until the next morning when we’d make the decent. I immediately liked Guillermo – funny, patient, bilingual…we were going to get along just fine.

Groups typically go straight into the climb upon arrival. Mother Nature decided to give us a little shower upon ours, so we tried waiting it out, but we all grew impatient. Heading into the rain, our wolf pack of four (Guillermo, Wade, me and Misha from Boston, a solo traveler) began the climb after a short safety talk. This was already more intense than I’d bargained for. I remember stepping on to that first rung with shaky legs. They were never shaky, never wavering. AH OH. Get it together, guys.

After the first section of rungs, I was getting the hang of it. We climbed higher and higher in the wind and the rain. I looked back to see the view – we were high above the Sacred Valley now. I remember thinking to myself, “I wish my friends and family could tune in on what I’m doing right now. It’s 6pm on a random Friday. This is how I spend my weekends, y’all.”

Around that time, we had to turn on our headlamps. That’s when it really sunk in. What the hell am I even doing right now? It’s damn near pitch black dark, and I’m on the side of a cliff in the rain. This should end well.

Dinner

And it did. It ended very well. We arrived to our capsule around 7pm that evening and had a few minutes to check out or transparent capsule before Guillermo was back with a gourmet dinner. King bed, check. Two twin beds, check. Bathroom, check. View, check. Sold! It didn’t take long for Guillermo to hike back with our dinner complete with soup, salad, and quinoa with chicken. OH and I can’t forget the brownie. That dinner may have placed in the top three as best meals in South America. AND I WAS ON THE SIDE OF A MOUNTAIN. How is that even possible?! Mind officially blown.

The Capsule

We were 1200 ft high in a transparent pod, dangling on the side of a rock face and yet, sleep came easy that night. The king bed was equipped with heavy down comforters and was honestly one of the most comfortable beds I’ve ever had the pleasure of sleeping in. As you probably guessed, there’s no heat or A/C up here, so just be sure to bring along a change of clothes as well as your significant other for body heat and companionship if you decide to commit to the climb. This needs to be shared with someone special.  And someone who’s not afraid of heights!

The Bathroom

I can hear the question now, “But where do you go to the bathroom?!” Fear not. Just behind a zipped compartment lies a secret land of toilet, sink, fresh water, towels, and the best bathroom view one could ask for. Ladies – I have some strange news for you. Y’all will have to pee into a bowl that’s set inside the toilet, and then essentially pour it down a makeshift urinal. It’s actually not as complicated or scary as it may sound. This needs to happen because Natura Vive created a solid and a liquid system so that guests could (almost) use the bathroom like normal while taking the utmost care of the environment. Everybody wins.

The Morning After

What comes with sleeping in a transparent pod on the side of a mountain? An early AF wake-up call! I didn’t even mind that the sun woke us up at 5:30am. Christmas morning vibes were all up in that capsule. Because we arrived at dark the night before, this was our first chance to really see just how high/crazy we really were. The shock wore off after a few minutes, and we broke out the GoPro, the Osmo and the Nikon for some crazy photo/video sessions before hiking down to breakfast a little after 7am.

Breakfast

The experience thus far was insane, sure, but nothing beat hiking down a few feet to Guillermo’s pod for breakfast. The spread was incredible – coffee, orange juice, fresh fruit, granola, ham, cheese, bread, jam, SCRAMBLED EGGS.  I’m sorry, what? Yeah, when you’re above the clouds perched on a cliff in the Sacred Valley eating scrambled eggs, you really begin to wonder how things can get any better than in that precise moment. It’s all downhill from here.

Only One Way Down

After the remainder of the eggs got cold and we’d taken our millionth photo of Peru in front of us, we began the journey down. We weren’t hiking, walking, trekking or biking. There’s no 1,200 ft water slide around these parts, either. No elevator, no helicopter. We attached ourselves to six different ziplines in order to make it down to ground zero. Talk about an adventure! I don’t think I’ve ever had so much exhilaration packed into an 18 hour period, ever.

If you’re in Cusco and have a night to spare, you know what to do. We got lucky and were able to snag the last opening Natura Vive had the entire month, so book in advance! The only night available at the Skylodge Adventure Suites during all of April was the night before we were supposed to arrive to Cusco. LAN Airlines did it again and went above and beyond in order to make this stay possible.  Special thank you, LAN!

What to Bring

  • $320/person/night
  • Tipping money
  • Hiking boots
  • Backpack with a change of clothes and pjs
  • Toothbrush/toothpaste
  • Camera
  • Sense of adventure

LAN + TAM = LATAM: A New Travel Experience

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If you’ve been keeping up with the past two months of my travels, you know I’ve been flying from country to country in South America with both LAN and TAM Airlines. Anyone remember that time I had a Boeing 767 all to myself?! Ahhhhh. A dream come true for an aviation nerd like myself.

My long term partners LAN and TAM have flown me safe, sound and in style all over the continent of South America for the past couple of years. In fact, the only countries we have yet to see together are Venezuela and Paraguay. We’ve shared so many memories together, logged so many miles, and drank so many complimentary beverages.

Just last week, LAN & TAM became LATAM.

Offering passengers more than a new brand, LATAM will provide a new travel experience. While the changes will be made gradually over the coming years, the benefits will be immediate — such as booking tickets via new LATAM website, accumulating kilometers using LATAM’s frequent flyer program, relaxing in LATAM VIP lounges and taking advantage of the most extensive route network in Latin America and the most modern fleet in the region.

Ch-ch-ch-changes! What’s the best change of all? It may not affect me, but FASHION ALERT. The stylish new uniforms worn by the LATAM cabin crew are all the rage. Hell. Even J. Crew doesn’t do a power suit quite like this.

The most interesting aspect of all of this lies with the actual planes themselves. Can we say paint job? Maybe I’m just a huge nerd, but I found this fascinating. Repainting takes on average six to 12 days per plane and will be scheduled in accordance with routine maintenance. New technology is also being implemented to paint LATAM aircrafts that’s 25% lighter, which will result in an average weight reduction of 20kg per plane. Score! It’s estimated that the new technology will achieve a reduction in the group’s CO2 emissions of 3,900 tons per year. How’s that for a knowledge bomb?

With all of these changes taking place, one thing’s for sure: the LAN and TAM top service that I know and love will remain a constant! Cheers to LATAM as they take to the skies.

A Quick Guide to Easter Island, Chile

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The Story of Easter Island

We’re going to have a history class for a hot second because Easter Island’s past is straight up crazy. The below outline is only a theory, so take it however you wish. Let the class commence!

Also called Rapa Nui and Isla de Pascua, the land of Easter Island was once rich in wildlife and a lush, tropical forest. Polynesians arrived 1600 years ago and began to feast on the abundance of plants and animals. The population reached 20,000 and eventually depleted all materials on the island. Everything was wiped out – birds, trees, fertile soil, shellfish. EVERYTHING. Call it deforestation, starvation, fighting. It’s basically a story of too many people and not enough resources.

And yet, puzzlingly, these same people had managed to carve enormous statues – almost 1,000 of them, with giant, hollow-eyed, gaunt faces, some weighing 75 tons. I’m sorry, what? YEAH. So we’re left with two questions: 1) What the hell happened to the people of Easter Island that the entire society died off many years ago and 2) How did the people move 75 ton structures called moai?

No one will ever truly know.

Phew. Class dismissed!

Where to Stay

Anyone convinced to visit the island yet? You should be. The best hotel in Easter Island is Hotel Hangaroa Eco Village and Spa. Constructed with natural materials such as cypress trunks, clay and volcanic rock, I immediately felt immersed into the Rapa Nui habitat upon check in.

The Room

We made our way to our ocean facing room and were surprised to see it complete with grassy knoll on top. One of my favorite features about Hotel Hangaroa is that each aspect blends seamlessly into the landscape here. The interior decor pays homage to elements found on the island, such as supporting cypress pillars and a clay soaking tub.

Cuisine

Easter Island isn’t exactly a culinary destination, but Hotel Hangaroa is changing that one dish at a time. Fresh fish is highly recommended here!

Location

Hangaroa Eco Village & Spa has an incredible location on the main coastal road with a sea-view, less than five minutes from the airport and just a few short minutes from the center of the town.

Our stay with the amazing Hotel Hangaroa totaled four nights, and I’d recommend this number to anyone looking to visit the island. It’s small in size but big in history and activities. The best advice I can give: Rent a four wheeler (we rented from Hotel Hangaroa who contacted a third party) and drive to the other side of the island for some exploration! You can easily see many of Easter Island’s landmarks in a couple days – but take your time. Slow-paced adventuring is best!

What to See

Ahu Tongariki – is the largest and most impressive ahu (shrine), located at the foot of the Rano Raraku Volcano. 15 statues stand on their platform facing away from the ocean behind them.

Ranu Raraku – the open quarry where the moai were sculpted is located in this volcano, and around 400 of these are found in diverse positions and phases of construction.

Anakena Beach (Ahu Nau Nau): a beautiful white sand beach stands out from the rest of the coastline, which is either sharp black lava rock or vertical cliff faces hundreds of feet tall. Palm trees dot the area, and a few moai (Nau Nau) can be seen steps from the ocean.

Playa Ovahe – a much smaller and far less crowded beach than Anakena, located below craggy rocks.

Orongo Village – stone village and ceremonial center that consists of a collection of low, windowless, round-walled buildings with even lower doors positioned on Rano Kau.

Volcan Rano Kau – largest volcano on the island with a crater of well over half a mile in diameter with over 50 houses.

Ahu Tahai – formed by three ahu or ceremonial altars, this is walking distance to Hangaroa Eco Village & Spa.

Ahu Akivi – ahu where seven moai stand, representing the first explorers sent by Easter Island King Hotu Matuia. This is on a hill in the center of the island.

Vinapu – this archaeological site comprising two ahu in ruins is found to the east of the airport. One of the two sites has stone walls with carvings similar to those of Machu Picchu are found.

Where to Eat

Kaloa Restaurant – Located at Hotel Hangaroa, this establishment serves up some of the best fish in town.

Haka Honu – We were on a mission for an ATM and came up on this gem. Located next to the Santander Bank, Haka Honu is so nice, we ate it twice (in a row!). They have an amazing fish dish with sweet chutney along with THE BEST BURGER I’ve ever put in my mouth.

General Info

  • Small population of only 6,500 people (3000 of that being natives, 2500 being Chileans or foreigners)
  • Has a subtropical climate with warm temps year-round, but August generally sees cooler temps. Wind and rain remain a constant.
  • If you’re a foreigner looking to buy land, sorry to break it to you – but locals are only permitted to rent land to foreigners.
  • Three schools on the island – two private and one public (where the native language is taught).
  • The port receives food from mainland every day via air, and twice a month by ship.
  • LATAM Airlines is the only carrier in and out of Easter Island. Flights to Tahiti are offered every Monday and Friday, while flights to/from Santiago are offered daily.
  • Total number of moai on Easter Island: 887
  • Biggest moai: Over 70 ft high and weighing appx 145-165 tons.

Image taken of a LAN plane coming into its final decent at Mataveri International Airport Image taken of a LAN plane coming into its final decent at Mataveri International Airport

Many thanks to Chile Travel and LAN Airlines for making this stay possible. The Road Les Traveled was welcomed as a guest to the island, however our opinions are as always our own.

Patagonia Camp (Yurts!) with Quasar Expeditions: Part III

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Do you know how BIG this region is? Specifically, it’s 402,700 mi², which takes up the lower southern triangle of land shared by Chile and Argentina. It comprises the southern portion of the Andes Mountains and has two coasts, a western one towards the Pacific Ocean and an eastern one towards the Atlantic Ocean.

Phew! Now that we have that geography lesson out of the way, let’s get to the fun part. Quasar Expeditions partnered with Jeep to bring adventurers bespoke itineraries at their own pace, on their own time. Genius! Instead of being on a bus with a bunch of strangers, Quasar gives you the keys so you can spend some quality time with friends, family, and the surrounding landscape. Don’t feel like driving? Quasar can provide a guide, and a really fun/knowledgable one at that (shout out to Alvaro!). I’ve already talked about the basic info when I had a Jeep for a day last year, so here’s why this particular trip is different.

Overland Safari with Quasar Expeditions

Overland Safari – ˈōvərˌland səˈfärē: [noun]. An expedition by land where guests traverse both Argentina and Chilean Patagonia via Jeep Wrangler Unlimited while staying in different luxury hotels along the way to ensure optimal comfort and time for exploration around the region.

Does that sound like a dream or what?

One of my favorite aspects about Quasar is that they are quick to accommodate any itinerary request. We needed to begin our expedition in Argentina Patagonia, and they were incredibly kind to bring the Jeep to us from where they are housed in Chile. They then recommended a list of luxury hotels from which we were able to choose. The rest was easy – put the key in the ignition and PataGOnia.

Stop #1: Aguas Arriba Lodge near El Chalten, Argentina

Stop #2: Eolo Lodge outside of El Calafate, Argentina

Stop #3: Patagonia Camp on the outskirts of Torres del Paine National Park, Chile

But first, the border crossing.

Argentina/Chile Border Crossing

The drive from El Calafate to Torres del Paine is extremely beautiful, easy (a couple turns at most) and takes around 5 1/2 hours, including time spent at the border. I’ve done this once before when I was simply a passenger of a small van where my only responsibility was handing over my passport in order to be cleared by Customs & Immigration. Now I was the driver – getting nervous for Wade and I to do this all by ourselves. HA. Silly me. The entire process couldn’t have been easier because Quasar gave us every single paper necessary to check out of Argentina and check into Chile. Phew! I could stop sweating now.

Note: Eat all your fruits, veggies and other fresh food before getting to the border. Out of all the countries I’ve visited, Chile is the most complicated when it comes to bringing in food. They let my granola bars and chocolate by, but if it’s perishable, they’ll take food from you. If you aren’t sure if you can bring in a certain item, go ahead and declare it and let them have a look!

Patagonia Camp (Yurts!)

In my opinion, the further south you go, the better off you are. I started as a product of the south in 1987 in the natural state of Arkansas, and I’ve been trying to make my way even further south ever since. Authenticity is abundant under southern skies, evident through the good-natured people, even better food and local finds. A shining example is the hotel where I was lucky enough to spend four glorious nights while in Chilean Patagonia, Patagonia Camp.

YURTS! I love them, especially this one complete with luxury bathroom, terrace and heating. And this bed OH MY GOSH this bed. I really fell in love with these pillows, so much so that I may have to follow up with a staff member to see where I can buy a couple. I don’t know if it was the challenging hikes during the day, but I slept like a teenage boy by nightfall (because the term ‘sleep like a baby’ doesn’t make sense to me now that I’m a new aunt. Babies don’t sleep that often, and I feel like out of any kind of person on the planet, teenage boys have everyone beat with sleep.)

Eighteen yurts exist on the shores of enormous Lake Toro (facing the Paine Massif), but if you have a thing for views, go for yurt #17 closest to the water. If you have a thing for wifi, go for yurt #8 because I believe that’s the closest yurt to the dining area, the only area at Patagonia Camp with wifi. I’m guilty of always on my phone posting social media or writing blogs, but who really needs wifi when you have this in your front yard (sunrise view from our terrace when it looked like the sky was on fire!)??

The Concept

One of my favorite aspects of the Camp is how it allows the five senses to open up. From our cozy king bed we could hear the sound of wind and rain as we fell asleep, and we could gaze at the stars from the center cupula. We feasted on fine dining for each and every meal – there’s nothing like the smell of cordero (lamb) wafting into your yurt, luring you to the Camp’s cordero and wine tasting!

Patagonia Camp’s design and construction is minimally invasive and blends in seamlessly with the landscape. The entire complex is built on wooden piles which support the yurts, common areas and interconnecting walkways. This building system helps preserve the native plants that have grown in the area for hundreds of years. Patagonia Camp’s commitment to preserving the environment should be coveted and attempted by all.

Offers

I love the wide-spread acceptance of South American all-inclusive programs. It’s not what you think. The cheap thrills of bottomless electric lemonades and guac are for seniors during spring break. Here, Patagonia Camp allows their guests to leave the bills behind in order to fully enjoy their surroundings. Rates include round-trip transportation to/from Punta Arenas airport (unless you have your very own Jeep!), lodging, full board, open bar, daily excursions, bilingual guides and entrance fee into Torres del Paine.

As far as excursions go, I’m having a hard time trying to think of what Patagonia Camp doesn’t offer. See their full list of activities here. I even took a pilates class one day. It’s extensive, and reading it gives me a longing to return. Sure, they offer the famous Base of the Torres and Grey Glacier hikes, but they also provide something far more unique such as treks through private estancias and kayaking/paddle boarding off their own shores that you can’t get anywhere else.

Staff

This establishment should be exceptionally proud of its staff members and how they treat their guests from all over the world. It takes a special person to be able to adapt so quickly to varying nationalities, personalities and fitness levels – but Patagonia Camp’s staff has it down to a science. I was blown away by each and every person I came across here, and their happiness is contagious. They genuinely enjoy spending their every day at the Camp…but how could you not?! They have some of the best jobs on the planet!

This was my fifth time to Patagonia, and I finally felt like I was doing it justice. Patagonia is unlike any other place on Earth and needs patience and a willingness to move slowly. Hasty visitors take note, or you’ll miss everything that matters. I highly recommend Quasar Expedition’s 8 night/9 day Overland Safari if you want to see Patagonia the right way. Also, calling all adventurous couples: I think it makes for the PERFECT honeymoon, anniversary, or couple’s trip! Take my advice. You’ll thank me later. Adventure begins at the end of the world!

Packing List

Image provided by Patagonia Camp Image provided by Patagonia Camp

The weather in Patagonia changes faster that my travel itinerary. You will likely experience all four seasons in under an hour.

Here’s what needs to happen inside your suitcase: base layer (tank or t-shirt), fleece/pullover, puff/down jacket, rain jacket, hat, gloves, waterproof pants, hiking pants, leggings, and waterproof hiking boots (already broken in!) to protect yourself from whatever elements may come. While we’re on a packing list, sunscreen, sunglasses and a camera are necessities. Shop my favorites below!

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