It’s the simple life full of family, fun, and a whole bunch of Wal-Marts. When I traveled as a kid, people from other states or countries asked if I owned any shoes or hung out in Wal-Mart parking lots for fun…both of which were questionable at the time because I still love being barefoot to this day, and I probably did hang out in Sam Walton’s parking lots a time or two.
People’s perception of places is so funny. You never know until you go, and that, in a nutshell, is one of the reasons I love to travel. But this is home. Arkansas carries a southern comfort that wraps me up in layers of sweet relaxation, strong accents, and even stronger humidity. I thrive in that heat and, thus, shiver in the L.A. coastal summers. With seven national parks, 50 state parks, 600,000 acres of lakes, and 9,700 miles of streams and rivers, there is so much to explore. I recently took a road trip through this great state, the preferred way to travel in 2020!
Little Rock
I didn’t know a ton about the capital of AR (not AK) until my parents moved here from Fort Smith back in 2015, and now I call myself a resident! I have a lot of respect for this little city along the Arkansas River. With a population of around 200,000, it’s the largest city in the state with a lot to do.
Do
- William J. Clinton Presidential Library and Museum
- Arkansas Museum of Fine Arts – Stunning new space to learn, experience, eat and drink
- Pinnacle Mountain hike – the west summit is 1.2 miles out and back with gorgeous views
- Arkansas River Trail – spanning just over 21 miles, the Arkansas River Trail runs riverside and extends from the Clinton Presidential Library to Two Rivers Park
- Two Rivers Park – rent kayaks with Rock Town River Outfitters
- Big Dam Bridge – the longest pedestrian and bicycle bridge in the world, built specifically for that use
- Museum of Discovery (kids)
- Altitude Trampoline Park (kids…okay fine adults, too)
- Dust Bowl Lanes Bowling
- Allsop Park Trail – a 3.7 out and back trail that’s great for kids and pets
- Barefoot Yoga
- River Market District
- Faulkner Farm for peach picking
- The Old Mill (North Little Rock)
- Shop the cute boutiques down Kavanagh Blvd like Steamroller Blues, Tulips, Belle & Blush, Domestic Domestic, etc.
Eat/Drink
- Heights Taco & Tamale – everything on this food and drink menu is good
- Cheers in the Heights – look no further than the chopped salmon salad
- Mugs Cafe – the best cappuccino in the land
- The Pizzeria – damn good pizza in a cute pizzeria
- George’s – Elevated eatery in the heart of the Heights. Don’t miss it!
- Kemuri – Best sushi in town
- Flora Jean – My new favorite in town! Wellness centered and plant-based…this place is a VISION.
- Hill Station – Great food, great drinks, great outside patio when the weather is good!
- Three Fold – noodles and dumplings and steamed buns, oh my!
- Taziki’s Mediterranean Cafe – God bless this greek salad with chicken
- Purple Cow Diner – because everyone needs a purple milkshake in their life
- One Eleven – fancy establishment in one of my favorite hotels around
- Samantha’s Tap Room & Wood Grill – downtown LR with some down home comfort
- Doe’s Eat Place – mmmmm steak
- Rock Town Distillery – tours, tasting rooms and damn good vodka
- Lost Forty Brewing – craft microbrewery in the heart of downtown Little Rock
- The Root Cafe – cutest eatery with locally sourced ingredients
- South on Main – cultural experience with a restaurant and performance venue
- The Bagel Shop – BAGELS. Enough said.
- Loblolly Creamery – small-batch, handcrafted ice cream and sweet treats
- Le Pops – Iced lollies NOM
- Local Lime – your local taco and marg purveyor
- Raduno – brick over pizza and Italian inspired menu
- Pantry Crest – Trust me, just get the lasagna.
- Ciao Baci – Bistro dishes in a cute little bungalow
Sleep
- Capital Hotel, the one and only
Fort Smith
Oh Fort Smith, I will always love thee. How can I begin to wrap up almost two decades here? Growing up in this bubble provided a beautiful childhood, but there’s no sugar-coating it – Fort Smith has a bit of a tumultuous past. I don’t resent this town for it, and I will always look fondly upon my memories here. Back in 1861, the city was used as recruiting and training grounds for Confederate forces until Union forces ultimately reclaimed the fort in September 1863 after many bloody Civil War combats. For decades following, the infamous Judge Isaac C. Parker sentenced more people to hang than any other judge in American history. With the largest criminal jurisdiction of any federal court at the time, Fort Smith handled all executions by hanging the guilty at the gallows, and most were of the BIPOC community. The court closed in 1896 after ‘The Hanging Judge’ fell ill.
Do
- Fort Smith National Historic Site
- Fort Smith Museum of History
- The Park at West End
- Old Fort Days Rodeo
- The Unexpected Art Project
Eat/Drink
- George’s – feta burger or bust
- Yellow Umbrella – ICONIC burger joint and crinkle fries
- Geno’s Pizza – by the slice. BY THE SLICE.
- Fort Smith Coffee Company – downtown eatery with a good kale breakfast sandwich
- Ed Walkers Drive-In & Restaurant – 1950s institution that only gets better with age
- Rolandos – Ecuadorian goodness
- Pho Vietnam – an old gas station serving up some v authentic food. A Fort Smith treasure.
- Las Americas Too – a family-run business with authentic Salvadoran, Mexican, and Tex-Mex food
- Neumeier’s Rib Room – best BBQ in the nation
- AJ’s Oyster House – good vibes, good people, good food
- 906 Cocktail and Cigar Lounge – upscale social lounge offering the finest spirits, wine, and cigars
- 21 West End – this place kicked me out after trying to order a drink at 18 years of age. A girl’s gotta try. Current day, it’s still great.
- Doe’s Eat Place – steak. NOM.
- Fort Smith Brewing Company – beer and a tasting room
- Uncork’d Wine Bar – cozy seating, an atmosphere quiet enough for intimate conversation, and a tapas menu
- Hardscrabble Country Club – what you’d typically find at a country club (find a member and order a club special)
Sleep
- My old house is for sale. Dear 4620 Free Ferry, I love you forever.
NWA (Northwest Arkansas)
An hour north of Fort Smith lies northwest Arkansas, a region that has seen immense growth for the past few years. When Sam Walton opened the dime store in Bentonville in 1950, nobody dreamed it would evolve into the giant retailer that is Walmart today. Throw in Tyson Foods and J.B. Hunt Transport and you got yourself a triple threat worth of Fortune 500 companies. The economic engine that is Bentonville, Fayetteville, Springdale, and Rogers is powerful.
Do
- Donald W. Reynolds Razorback Stadium – go hogs!
- Dickson Street / Fayetteville Square (especially the Farmer’s Market on Saturday mornings when in season)
- Botanical Garden of the Ozarks
- Lake Fayetteville 5 Mile Trail
- Elxr Yoga Lounge
- Spoon Moon Cosmic Community
- Razorback Greenway Trail for running, hiking and biking
- Crystal Bridges Museum of American Art, The Momentary, Amazeum
- Prairie Grove Battlefield Park
- Downtown Bentonville Square
- War Eagle Mill & Cavern
Eat/Drink
- Arsagas on the Depot – a coffee shop staple in NWA
- Doe’s Eat Place – more steak
- Rick’s Bakery – for all things sugar
- Vetro 1925 – refined Italian and scrumptious wine
- Theo’s – blends the freshness of coastal cuisine with the comfort of southern cooking and hospitality
- The Farmer’s Table Cafe – vegan friendly farm-to-table
- Stone Mill Bread – turkey sandwich on cranberry pecan bread, that’s all
- Pesto Cafe – don’t let the seedy motel that it resides in deter you! If you’re looking for traditional Italian food with red-checkered tablecloths and wine, look no further
- Cafe Rue Orleans – authentic award winning cajun dishes straight from New Orleans
- Bordinos – restaurant and wine bar with northern Italian influence
- Mockingbird Kitchen – mmmm brunch (and other things)
- Fox Trail Distillery – the only spirit distillery in NWA with a great tour of the production facility ending with a bourbon tasting
- Hugo’s – great burgers, funky vibes
Shop
- Lola
- Masons
- Riffraff
- By Request
- Walker Brothers
- Greydog Vintage
- The Freckled Hen Farmhouse
- Darcy Apparel
Sleep
Lake Ouachita / Mt. Ida
If you can’t point it out on a map, Arkansas is very landlocked. It takes hours to get to a coastline, so the state enjoys its many lakes. I grew up going to Lake Ouachita (“Wash-ah-taw”) with my family every weekend during the summer. Arkansas’ biggest lake makes up 40,000 acres and one of the cleanest lakes in the country. When I was about six years old, my mom threw me in the water and bribed me with $10 to get up on skis. It worked, and I thank her for it! Fun fact: Mount Ida, the city where my parent’s lakehouse is located, is known as the Quartz Crystal Capital of the World 🙂 Over Christmas, I went digging for diamonds at Crater of Diamonds state park, the world’s only diamond-bearing site accessible to the public!
Do
- Boating, wakeboarding, water skiing, tubing, swimming, fishing, kayaking, and even scuba diving
- Harbor Marina
- Turtle Cove Spa
- Horseback riding
- Ouachita National Forest
- Crater of Diamonds State Park (an hour from Mt. Ida)
Eat/Drink
- Shangri-La – fried chicken and pie, the best way to spend an afternoon
- The Dairyette – a no-frills diner that’s a must-do for chicken fingers, shakes, and whatever else your heart desires
- Burl’s Smokehouse – turkey, beef jerky and cinnamon rolls, the foods of my childhood
Sleep
Lake Hamilton / Hot Springs
Ouachita is only about 30 minutes from Hot Springs, the hometown of Bill Clinton (although born in Hope, AR). I grew up visiting my grandparents who lived here on Lake Hamilton. The difference between Lake Ouachita and Lake Hamilton is that you can actually build on Hamilton, but the lake is much smaller than Ouachita.
Do
- Boating and water sports on the lake
- Oaklawn Horse Racing
- Bathhouse Row
- Hot Springs National Park
Eat/Drink
- Rolandos – Ecuadorian goodness
- The Pancake Shop – it’s all in the name
- Luna Bella – chic kitchen serving italian meat, seafood & pasta dishes plus cocktails
- Stubby’s BBQ – smoked meats are served 3 ways (traditional, healthy & sassy)
- Cajun Boilers – laidback spot with a back deck featuring fried & boiled seafood, classic Cajun dishes & draft beer
- Sam’s Pizza – great food, great prices, great menu
- Deluca’s Pizza – so popular that you need to call ahead and reserve your dough!
- Grateful Head Pizza – live music, fabulous drinks and of course, pizza!
Sleep
- Airbnb a house on the water
Eureka Springs
Eureka Springs is the quirkiest town in Arkansas hands down. It’s built on a steep hill and the entire city is on the National Register of Historic Places. The little village is sometimes referred to as “the little Switzerland of America” and I can confirm – European vibes are around every corner. With shop names like ‘Awakening the Divine’ and ‘The Essential Oil Shoppe’, this little yogi was in heaven 🙂 Historians say indigenous cultures traveled to the “Old Indian Healing Spring” long before European Americans incorporated the city. Whatever the case, if Eureka Springs doesn’t already have it’s very own ‘Keep Eureka Weird’ bumper sticker, it needs one.
Do
- Thorncrown Chapel
- Eureka Springs Downtown
- Lake Leatherwood
- Crescent Hotel ghost tours
Eat/Drink
- I’m pretty sure we always stopped at Main Street Cafe on the way to Kanakuk Kamp, and do to COVID, everything was closed on my most recent trip!
Sleep
Jasper
Ask people what to do in Arkansas and you’ll probably hear about the Buffalo River. This stunning river is one of the few remaining unpolluted, free-flowing rivers in the lower 48 states, and the city of Jasper is a base for lots of adventuring. Think waterfalls, hiking, kayaking, and canoeing. The town of Jasper itself only has about three restaurants, but the people are lovely and the diners suffice for a few days in the area!
Do
- Float the Buffalo River with Buffalo River Outfitters
- Horseshoe Canyon Ranch for rock climbing and horseback riding
- Triple Falls
- Hemmed-In Hollow Falls
- Big Bluff / Goat Trail
- Whitaker Point (Hawksbill Crag, shown below), 3 miles round trip
Eat/Drink
- Blue Mountain Bakery – adventure awaits…and so does coffee 🙂
- Ozark Cafe – burgers and shakes and a descent chicken salad
- Sharon K’s Cafe
- Buffalo Outdoor Center – stopped here on the way to Whitaker Point & FYI there’s a deli in the back!
Sleep
Thirsty for more 🙂
Obviously, I missed a few places. I’ve spent countless days at my grandparent’s old home in Helena and Pine Bluff and have visited some insanely small towns while playing junior high basketball (go Buffs). I went on field trips to Petit Jean and Devil’s Den State Park where both have great trails and waterfalls. I learned how to shoot a gun in De Valls Bluff near Stuttgart, the duck hunting capital of the world. I’d love to see the highest point in the state at Mount Magazine alongside Blanchard Springs and the White River on my next trip!
Please use this guide on your next road trip through the Natural State – no travel agent fees required! As we continue to navigate what travel means post-pandemic, domestic travel close to home is always a good idea.
Carynne says
This is awesome! I live in neighboring Kansas right now and want to visit Arkansas before we move (again). We passed through Little Rock on our honeymoon moving from NC to CA a few years ago and were so surprised both there and on the highway. Tis a gorgeous state! Thank you for the tips 🙂
lesleymurphy says
Aw thanks for this! AR is truly beautiful. You’ll have to return one day before moving!
Chelsey Alley says
Great representation for Arkansas! Makes people that never visited want to come! I grew up in Texas and had my own doubts of Arkansas until I moved here when I got married. It truly is a great place!
lesleymurphy says
It’s a gem – I’m glad you think so, too!
Elaine says
Beautiful AR and thanks for the tips. Oh, I can’t wait for Covid 19 to go away and treatment/ vaccine is available. This year or next year I’ll go domestic/ national tour. It’s time to see and explore Midwest and the South of America. Thanks beautiful Les and may you find your destiny,
lesleymurphy says
Yes! I’m always telling those who haven’t explored the south to take a road trip through the southern states!
Martha Ann Huey Sloan says
Thank you Lesley❣️
This is beyond awesome… I can’t wait to share this with so many friends… I too Love ❤️ the beautiful state of Arkansas.. I’m from Tall Pines 🌲And Pink Tomatoes🍅 Warren 😘
lesleymurphy says
Thank you so much for sharing! xo
Angie Farquhar says
There is nothing like a Bradley County Tomato!!! Delicious!
Keleigh Button says
NWA native over here 👋🏼 Love this guide!! You captured all the goodies around our state. I’ll be sure to share with friends visiting from out of town!!
lesleymurphy says
Thank you so much! Appreciate you.
Angel says
Lived in Arkansas my entire life. I like to think of it as Oregon’s little sis!
Headed to Eureka next week, and Fayetteville/Bentonville the following week! This summer it’s all about The Natural State.
lesleymurphy says
I love that! Next on my list is Oregon 🙂
Marla England says
I’m a 5th generation Arkansan, and I wouldn’t want to live anywhere else! Your information is spot on and the photos reflect the natural beauty of our state. Thank you!
lesleymurphy says
Thank you so much. Arkansas is easy to capture when it’s *that* beautiful and natural 🙂
Taylor says
I have a goal to go to all 50 states by the age of 30 and Arkansas is one of the remaining states I have left. I love to obsessively research the best things to do in each state, because if I am going to go, I always want to do it RIGHT and as a local would do! This post is everything and I want to thank you for such amazing recommendations! 🙂 I love what you said about people having odd perceptions of places until they visit. That has been my exact reason for wanting to go to all 50 states!
lesleymurphy says
50 states by 30 – amazing! I’m glad I could be of help for one of you last ones. Sending you love and luck on your journey!
Bob Klein says
Thanks for the tour Leslie. We are stuck in Florida with this virus keeping us from returning to Arkansas for the summer so these pics brought it back to us at just the right time. Those days at Trinity and remembering the Quad will always be with me. Look forward to your adventures every month. Cant wait to see where you will end up. My quest is to see all 61 National Park in the country. Before this pandemic I had been able to see 39 so hopefully this will end soon and I can resume my adventure too. Maybe I will see you out there.
lesleymurphy says
I hope you and the family are keeping safe and healthy! All 61 National Parks is such a great mission! Would love to know your favorites when you complete it. Wishing you lots of sunshine and a peaceful journey!
Jacqueline Colgate says
I just moved to Bentonville from Dallas and this is the perfect guide for me to explore my new town! Thank you!
Jessica Altamos says
Well, we just booked our Airbnb in Saint Joe to hit up the Buffalo River after seeing your pictures! Thanks for sharing! Another hidden gem for staying is River View Cabins & Canoes and I hate to share because it’s always booked now, but a cute spot and they drop and pick up on the Oauchita River behind the property! 💚
On a mission now to find these gorgeous waterfalls! ❤️
AK says
Thanks for featuring our state! I am a local Arkansan, born in Little Rock, grew up in Rogers, then have lived in big cities the last 11 years, but when the riots hit NYC- my husband and I left and have been in Bentonville, AR since June. It is insane how much has changed over the years. Bentonville is truly an urban town now- pubs, coffee shops, hip restaurants, and art galore! Your list is great, but there are a few I thought of for NWA if you want to explore more: there has been almost 80 million dollars invested into the paved and mountain bike trails that run from Bella Vista to Fayetteville (over 100 miles of trails)- they are comprehensive and incredible!! (and they are still building more!) The mountain biking alone is recognized as some of the best mountain biking in the world. Would also recommend bringing bikes to Pea Ridge National Park- it is secluded and gorgeous, they have great hiking trails too. Tanyard creek waterfall in Bella Vista is a beauty- just have to time it right after the rain. If you want a really weird experience, do the drive-thru Gentry Safari in Gentry…I have been going since I was a kid, it is truly something ha…definitely worth checking out. Also, Little Debbie headquarters is there and they have a five and dime shop, so you could make a pit stop there on your way out (who wouldn’t want a 10 cent hoho?! lol). There is a drive-in movie theatre in Fayetteville too that has been there forever, always a favorite!
The farmers market in Bentonville is every Saturday- a great selection of local goods, and they have live musicians playing- mostly jazz…swoon. Meteor cafe in Bentonvilee (coffee shop turned bar at night) has a bomb breakfast sandwich with french toast as the base, and a solid happy hour. Oven and Tap in Bentonville has been a favorite of ours- some of the best handmade pasta! They change up the menu almost every week using local fresh in-season ingredients..so tasty. The coolest place we have eaten here is called Louise Cafe in Bentonville- a very chic (indoor/outdoor) private airport restaurant named after Arkansas’ very own famous pilot, Louise Thaden…it’s truly magical to go there on a clear day, grab some tasty brunch, and watch these tiny beautiful airplanes fly all around you. Nothing Bundt Cakes in Rogers will rock all your bundt cake dreams…and Sweet Dream Creamery food truck in Bentonville is HEAVEN…homemade ice cream daily, always mixing up the flavors.
Dandy Roll in Rogers is in downtown, and has a massive collection of vintage prints and custom framing- definitely worth a peruse. The Rose and Somewhere in Time are two awesome antique/flea markets in Rogers. Cheap Thrills in Fayetteville has amazing vintage clothes…has been around forever, so many treasures!
Hope that fuels your exploring next time you’re in NWA 🙂 excited to try some of your list- I did crags last weekend!
Alex Waddle says
I knew you just moved to Arkansas but just learning your an Arkansan. 😍 Love our State. I’m a Spa City Girl. congrats on all you have to celebrate. 🎉
Laura says
Hi there! My husband and I are moving to Fort Smith with our six-month-old in a few weeks from the Heights in Little Rock. Do you have shopping recs for the city? I appreciate the info you posted about the area – it’s getting me more excited about our pending move!
Julia says
If you really enjoy thrifting or vintage markets than you’ll love Fort Smith. Some great spots – Belle Starr, designer again, and wasted. Of course there are cute boutiques around town too! I just personally love the antique stuff because of the history.
Shelby O says
I lived in Little Rock for 5 years and @thecorner and maddies place were a few of my top favorite restaurants. I still dream about their food even after I moved away 4 years ago.
Lauren Moore says
I typically keep up with your blog regularly but some how missed this one until today! I grew up in Mount Ida (worked at Shangri La) & now live in Fort Smith! I feel you gave the perfect recommendations for our beautiful state! Love that you even shined love upon my heaven on earth, Lake Ouachita❤️
Brandi Day says
Great Job Leslie! Just more things to add to the NWA area!
Nwa Things to do:
AMP- concerts (Rogers)
Walton arts center- live performances (Fayetteville)
Top Golf (Rogers)
Lake Weddington- kayak and paddle boat rentals (Fayetteville)
Beaver Lake (Rogers)
NWA Hiking:
Tanyard trail- Bella vista
Mountain Biking:
Trails that start at the Missouri state line and go for miles connecting multiple towns/cities in NWA. Bella vista to Fayetteville I think.
Micro Breweries:
Black Apple Crossing- Springdale
Core- Bentonville
Ivory Bill Brewery- Siloam Springs
Saddlebock Brewery and Restraunt- Springdale
Bike Rack Brewing Co- Bentonville
Creekside Taproom- Siloam Springs
NWA Eats:
Juicy Tails (also Fayetteville) seafood
Fish City Grill (Seafood) Rogers
7 Brew (coffee) multiple locations NWA
Sassy Red House (BBQ)
Foghorns (Wings) multiple locations NWA
Feltner Brothers (Burgers) Fayetteville
Fratellis (Pizzeria) Siloam Springs
28 Springs Siloam Springs
Hannah says
Little Rock- The Community Bakery
Searcy Arkansas: the Art Alley, Wild sweet Williams (bakery), Stu’s Brew (BEST COFFEE)
Cheyenne says
45 minutes from Lake Ouachita sits a small town, Mena, AR. A lot of outdoor adventure awaits in this small town, from exploring the Ouachita mountains and hiking the trails of Queen Wilhelmina state park to ATV riding at Wolf Pen Gap. Don’t forget to visit Alberts Pike Recreational Area, Little Missouri Falls, and the Cossatot River State Park while in the area🙂
Amanda Warren says
I love that you’ve brought this attention to Arkansas! I went to school in Fayetteville and it has been my favorite place on earth ever since. I spent every weekend out in Jasper and Ponca. My favorite hike is Sweden Creek Falls! Arkansas is so beyond beautiful and even though I’m in Austin right now, my long term goal is to move back to Arkansas and raise a family in the most underrated state. congratulations on moving back!
Julia says
I moved to Fort Smith in July of 2020 from Denver. We’ve really enjoyed how close outdoor activities are – if you like rock climbing, Fern Gully is only 40 minutes away and it’s a hidden gem for rock climbers! Also, downtown Fort Smith is starting to become alive/young again with places like The Bakery District opening up!
Mary Sanders says
Hot Springs, you must go to La Hacienda. Must ask for the sweet salsa and queso. V8 is my favorite menu item. And the Blue Mountain Bakery in Jasper, absolutely kills me to say they are permanently closed! The peanut butter cookies were amazing 💔
Sarah says
Hi Lesley, thank you for this guide! I live in Los Angeles and you’ve inspired me to check out the Natural State. But, should I do it the last week of July (last minute vacation planning)? Or will it be oppressively hot? We’re a family of five, three kids 5 and under. Considering staying in 2-3 spots across the state.
Claire says
Thank you!! Planning a family road trip to AR and this is SO helpful!!
Carissa Gaines says
Lesley,
I absolutely love reading your travel blog. I have been to many of the same places in my lifetime, so it is fascinating to compare our trips and also have loved getting ideas from you for future adventures. My family and I live in Raleigh and I have been thinking about planning an Arkansas trip for our fall break, the second week in October. We thought it would be a fun drive to stop in to see friends in Nashville on the way, and then hit up Birmingham or/and Atlanta on a different route back. I was impressed with the Jasper area from your post and would make that our base. We would be interested in hiking, kayaking, exploring beautiful small towns. Is it still warm enough to swim in the rivers/lakes? Also, Is the second week or October a good time to explore the Natural state?
Thanks for your recommendations!
Carissa Gaines says
Also, I have two girls, ages 8 and 4.