The drive in from El Calafate was less than comfortable, but when you’re heading to the end of the world, you can’t expect sleeper buses and smooth asphalt. It should also be noted that if you’re traveling to Torres del Paine from El Calafate, Argentina, smuggling fruit into Chile is impossible. The frightening men dressed in all black with three different pistols attached to their belts search every car entering the country with dogs trained to sniff out even the faintest scent of apple. Long story short, I had to spend time declaring my apple to then throw said apple in the trash. Efficiency isn’t really Chile’s thing. But nobody cared. Cue my head ricocheting off the window of the Explora van, and all I was after was that unparalleled view. I quickly traded Grey’s Anatomy on my iPad for the multi-colored peaks of the Torres. The view in front of us silenced the car. I couldn’t form a sentence, in part by the beauty that stood before me, but also partly due to the fact that I thought I was going to have to climb that sucker. Hello, death. Nice to meet you. My barely broken-in hiking boots were ready for round two, but not that ready.
After entering the National Park and driving for half an hour among what I’m positive is the most serene scene on the planet, it almost came as a shock when we spotted our big, white eco-hotel in the distance. Explora Patagonia’s Salto Chico hotel was nothing short of fabulous. I loathe the words “all-inclusive hotel” because they remind me of an unescapable cruise ship or a freshman year spring break in Mexico, but for one large lump sum, you can eat as many fresh meals and drink as many pisco sours and trek as many mountains and ride however many horses as you damn well please. After somehow lucking out and checking into a corner suite for four glorious days and nights at the southernmost tip of the world, I decided that this was my place. After trekking for 5 full days straight (1 on Perito Moreno and 4 in Torres), calves so sore even a massage would be crippling, I knew I was going to return one day. Even after I almost started crying because my thighs weren’t up for the damn near 90 degree uninterrupted incline, Glacier Gray and Lake Pehoe were just so worth it.
Looking around and noticing my boyfriend and I were the youngest by 30 years didn’t matter. It gave me more hope that retirement looked real good. But until that happens, we’ll celebrate life, travel, and love with polar bear plunges into Lake Pehoe. Mark my words, though…sometime in the far off future, my days and nights will consist of guzzling Patagonia beers and hardly taking my eyes off of the Torres. By that age, my trekking boots will be long covered in dust, and that’s okay by me.
| Day & Night |
Daytime events in Patagonia:
- Half day or full day treks via Explora’s guides
- Horse rides from the best trained horses in the world, or so they claim
- Hot tub soaks on Lake Pehoe
- All day spa day at Explora
Nighttime events in Patagonia:
- Eating an extremely fresh, delectable dinner at Explora’s hotel Salto Chico
- Pisco Sours at the bar
- Sleep
- Sleep
- Sleep
| Cost Breakdown |
Explora Patagonia:
Let me preface this by saying Explora Patagonia is all-inclusive, without the slightest slack in quality. Seeking disconnection from everyday routine, they like to leave the bills behind. An upfront payment of $3,000 is required in order to explore the southernmost tip of the world for 4 glorious nights. This adventure includes:
- All meals and alcohol
- All exploration activities
- Pick up and drop off at the airport, which isn’t close
- Relaxing areas, wifi in public areas, and national park entrance fees
| Seasons |
The best time to experience this magical setting is from October to April, which is spring (~64 degrees) and summer (~68 degrees) in the southern hemisphere. Torres del Paine National Park is open all year round, however, so if you have the balls to try your hand at winter (~43 degrees) in the southernmost tip of the world, by all means…
Intense winds are common inside the park, creating gusts of up to 70mph at times. In only minutes, the winds can darken the sky or even disperse the storm clouds.
| In Hindsight |
If you know anything about hotels in or near the Torres del Paine National Park, you know that Explora’s Salto Chico is everything. I have zero regrets or critiques. They are a well oiled machine. Ehh, mmmaybe I would’ve rested between hikes as it was hard to move a single muscle after day 5, but even still… no regrets.
Karen says
Hi Lesley – thanks for your reply on my question on Explora. Really appreciate your insight! As I plan our trip to Patagonia in early June, I cannot seem to find reliable info on how to get fwrom El Calafate to Torres Del Paine. I’ve read that there are buses that run from El Calafate to Puerto Natales ( ~5 hours ) and Buses from Puerto Natales to Torres del Paine ( ~ 2 hours ). You mentioned the bus experience above, do you know of bus schedules or if they run less often in the off season? We are thinking to spend 2 days in El Calafate (see the glacier), 1 day traveling to Torres Del Pain, and 2 days in Torres Del Paine. Does this seem doable from your standpoint? Would you consider renting a car and driving yourself into Chile? (can we do this?) Again, your blog has been super helpful and all the Patagonia posts are making me excited! 🙂
Thank you!
Karen
Lesley Murphy says
Hi Karen! If you’re staying with Explora, they will provide transportation from El Calafate to the hotel. We were picked up in Calafate after hiking the glacier and the journey took around 6 hours. If you aren’t staying with Explora, I’d suggest looking into taking a Jeep with Quasar Expeditions to either drive yourself or have a guide/driver accompany you. Read more on my post here: http://www.theroadlestraveled.com/travel-blog/quasar-expeditions-behind-the-wheel-in-patagonia
I would assume bus schedules run less frequently in June, but I’m not certain. Two days in Calafate for the glacier is great, although I regret not staying a bit longer to see El Chalten. As for Torres del Paine, if you have more time to spare, I’d stay at least another day. We stayed 3 and wish we stayed 4.
I’m actually visiting Torres again in a couple weeks and working with Tierra Patagonia. Check back in late April on my post and see what you think about them. Lovely hotel!
Adrien says
First off I have state how much I’ve enjoyed reading your blog, it makes me so excited for my own adventures. I currently planning a trip to patagonia in Jan/Feb 2016 and debating between staying at tierra vs explora hotels. Your post of the two made me wish I could stay at both, but I must choose one sigh… Do you have any suggestions? We are a very active late 20’s couple looking to really explore the park and be challenged during the day and then come back to the hotel to be completely relaxed.
Any insight would be greatly appreciated.
Best,
Adrien
Marissa Salva says
Hi!
We are planning a big Argentina/Chile trip for my 30th! No kids, me and the hubby! We are very adventurous. He’s gone by motorcycle from Arizona to Argentina and we lived in Costa Rica for a time. Any off the beaten trail stuff you did or can recommend? We plan on a lot of camping! Also the hot tubs at Lake Pehoe I’m having trouble finding info on it! Thanks so much! Your blog is so helpful