I’ve always felt cheated by this trip due to the fact that I only saw the inside of a hotel, the inside of a canoe, and the inside of a freezing cold lake…but my ohhhh my was it a pretty lake indeed. Even through all the lights, cameras, action and nerves, I knew I’d make plans to come back to this exact spot without my cast members.
I set off a few days ago on a solo trip to explore what to do in Banff National Park. I’ve traveled the world plenty of times by myself, but it’s always been for a client and tied to work. This time around, I was able to do what I wanted and when I wanted…all in the name of F R E E D O M. If you’re looking for a great solo adventure spot, Banff and beyond is just what you need. Allow me to explain…
Day 1
I flew into Calgary and rented a car. The people at Avis were good salesmen and saw me coming. Because I didn’t check the GPS box when booking online, the GPS was more expensive at the counter. For just $4/day more, I could get a fancy pantsy BWM with built-in GPS. #SoldToMe
I had asked many of my readers and followers about what to do in the area and so many mentioned the adorable town of Canmore. To you guys, I say thank you! I loved this cute little town and immediately started here since it was a bit closer to Calgary than Banff. If you don’t stay here, it’s a good idea to at least think about buying any type of grocery items here because Canmore tends to be more inexpensive than Banff.
I stopped to eat lunch at The Iron Goat before driving to the trailhead of my first hike. I changed from airport attire to hiking attire in the car (oops) and started on my first hike of the trip to Grassi Lakes.
Buy my Merrell waterproof hiking boots
Grassi Lakes
Distance: 2 mile loop with a difficult and easy side. Note: Do the difficult side. It’s not that difficult and offers much better views than the easy side that has a ton of coverage and vegetation. I actually did the hard side on the way up and the easy side on the way down since it makes a loop 🙂
Elevation: 761 feet
Skill level: Easy and for all types of hikers
Final Thoughts: This was a great hike to start out with on my first day in Banff. I found it to be pretty easy yet stunning all the way up to the lakes – but definitely take the “difficult” side and go on a sunny day so the sunlight reflects the beautiful blue hues of the lakes.
After the hike I drove the 20 minutes to Banff, checked into the Juniper Hotel and made my way to Park Distillery for dinner. This place was magical and so was its rotisserie chicken, even though I was told to get the poutine. Sorry guys, but I just couldn’t stomach fries, cheese and gravy at that time. I can only be so Canadian in one day 🙂
Day 2
I woke up at 7:30 and knew I had to go back to Canmore. Ha Ling Peak hike was calling my name. First of all, this wasn’t an inconvenience in the slightest since 1) it’s only a 20 minute drive and 2) that drive is sooo beautiful. As I was turning into Canmore, Tim Hortons stood out like a baby in a bar at midnight. I hadn’t had breakfast and their maple donut went in my mouth and into my belly faster than you could swipe my credit card for another. Oh well, Ha Ling Peak was up next and part of me thought it wasn’t going to be quite as easy as Grassi Lakes. I needed some necessary fuel!
Ha Ling Peak
Distance: 3.6 miles
Elevation: 2,588 feet
Skill level: Moderate to Difficult, started around 9:45am and ended around 2:30pm
Final Thoughts: This hike was a bitch, but an amazingly beautiful bitch at the same time. It’s basically nature’s stairmaster and steep AF, enclosed by forest until about the last quarter of the hike when you’re much more exposed. The view at the end is a 360 degree view of Canmore and the Canadian rockies. Bring bear spray or find really nice Brits who have bear spray 😉 You can find it in various places around Banff for about $30.
Buy my Merrell waterproof hiking boots
The town of Canmore has plenty of great places to eat, but carbs were calling to me and Rocky Mountain Bagel Company won that day. I then drove back to my hotel in Banff to record my podcast with Reality Steve, and if you haven’t listened to it yet, you should. It’s super honest, raw and Bachelor filled with a side of travel and surgery. It’s almost two hours long, so cuddle up with a beverage or make it a work commute activity 🙂
One of my favorite things about Canada in the summer is that it doesn’t get dark until about 10pm. After my podcast, I then ventured to Surprise Corner in search of this Banff Springs hotel view, then on to Two Jack Lake followed by Minnewanka Lake at sunset. I even caught this gorg pic of bride and groom getting their photos taken. #CoupleGoalsAF
By the time I even thought about dinner, I was crazy tired and couldn’t bare sitting down anywhere for a long drawn out evening. Don’t judge me, but I passed Subway, made a u-turn, got it to-go, and ate it in the bath before passing out for the evening. Zzzzzzz.
Day 3
I fully realize the sun rises around 5:30am in Banff around this time of year, but I couldn’t be bothered to capture sunrise on my personal vacation. This entire trip was completely unsponsored, and I was doing exactly what I wanted when I wanted (which didn’t entail an alarm clock).
I woke up around 8am, scrolled social media for a bit as you do, ate breakfast at the hotel restaurant which was delicious, packed up, did some work and then set off around 11am to see what the Upper Hot Springs and the Banff Gondola were all about. If I’m being honest, the hot springs are just a glorified pool, and I’d probably opt for the hike up Sulphur Mountain instead of paying $62 CAD at the regular rate for the gondola ride up Sulphur.
After meandering around for the morning, I drove the 30 minutes to hike Johnston Canyon.
Johnston Canyon
Distance: .68 miles to Lower Falls or 3 miles round trip to Upper Falls and back. Note that you can also hike up 3 more miles to the Ink Pots
Elevation: 1,279 to Upper Falls
Skill level: Great for all skill levels
With over one million visitors per year, Johnston Canyon is one of the most popular tourist attractions in Banff. I set out on the hike with one goal in mind: to find the secret cave. As I ventured off the walking path towards what I thought was the cave and the sound of a waterfall, I found a group of people at the water’s edge. They asked if I was looking for the secret cave too, I said yes, and they asked if I wanted to join their expedition group. After 10 more minutes of searching, we went off course and to our surprise, we found this cave at last! We were a group of Americans and Canadians in complete awe of this place. We cheers’d as we celebrated with beers and hung out for another 45 minutes before parting ways. This is why I love solo travel, because to be honest, I’m only solo for so long.
How to find the secret cave: I can’t help too entirely much because there is no clear path. About 20 minutes after the lower falls on the upper falls trail, keep looking for paths to your right that may take you down the the water bank. It’s hard to spot but look closely at every clearing you can and have this image in mind as it’s right off the trail leading to the water:
Final thoughts: This was more of a walking path than any kind of hike, but it’s great for people of all skill levels and ages. There were lots of kids and families here, and there were less and less people as the lower falls continued into the upper falls and onto the Ink Pots.
I grabbed lunch at the cafe on the trail (can’t miss it) – don’t forget your wallet in the car like I did or you’ll have to do some extra walking for food.
Afterwards, I drove another 30 minutes to Lake Louise. I checked into Paradise Lodge & Bungalows (cute and generously sized wood cabins) and got dressed to witness what I’d come for – a second viewing of the lake! Sadly, it started pouring as I was about to walk out the door, so I spent the evening getting some work done and eating dinner at Deer Lodge before exploring the next morning.
Day 4
Today was the day! I was so nervous that the bad weather would persist, but thankfully the sun came in and out and allowed the turquoise colors of the lake to shine. Don’t be surprised when you see tourists in abundance here as Louise brings in the crowds from all over the world. I think I heard Spanish, Portuguese, German and French all in the span of 5 minutes. I spent hours meandering, reminiscing, and remembering my first experience here with The Bachelor. I walked over to these canoes and remembered how Chris Harrison told us how we were all going to paddle out to the other side of the lake in the canoes and that there was an open seat in Sean’s canoe. He asked who wanted it and my entire body jolted forward to be next to him. I should’ve known we weren’t going to work out when our conversation wasn’t exactly fluid on the way to the other side. Oh well, wuddyagonnado?
It was lunch time and I wasn’t ready to leave. I wanted to go roam the massive halls of the Fairmont Lake Louise, and when I did, Chateau Deli caught my eye. Head here if you want a quick fix before exploring for the afternoon.
Lake Agnes Hike
Distance: 4.1 miles
Elevation: 1,794 feet
Skill level: Moderate
Note that there was a fair amount of snow and ice when I hiked on June 1st. There was also an avalanche warning, however that didn’t stop many hikers from partaking in the hike. The trail was very much still open even with the warning sign.
Final thoughts: This hike came HIGHLY recommended from everyone, probably the most recommended hike in Banff or Canmore. I may have enjoyed Ha Ling Peak a little more than this one just because I found it a bit more diverse and challenging, all with a cooler view at the top. The tea house definitely adds unique character here though, so be sure to bring cash so you can enjoy some tea or hot chocolate! Afterwards, many people go on to hike the Little or Big Beehive trails, although it was covered in snow when I was in Banff. Next time 😉
At around 4pm, I headed to a place that again came so highly recommended from my followers – Emerald Lake. It’s situated in Yoho National Park about 30 minutes away from Lake Louise via car. I found the lake to be so peaceful since I went towards the end of the day with no crowds, however mosquitoes were in abundance so bring lots of bug spray!
Day 5
I woke up early to go see Moraine Lake on my last morning. I knew I couldn’t leave without snapping a few photos here, and I was glad I arrived before 9am since that’s around the time that large crowds descended upon the area. I needed to go pack up my stuff at the hotel and head to the airport. Departure is such sweet sorrow, but I know I’ll be back – I didn’t have enough days to see the Icefield Parkway and Jasper National Park, so Alberta round 3 is up next!
I’ll be posting more about solo trips and how to take photos when you travel solo soon! Stay tuned 🙂
I’ve always wanted to visit this special part of Canada!! Loved all your tips and ideas. Thanks for sharing, lady!!
I know how much you love Canada…and you would REALLY LOVE this place 🙂
Thank you so much! I am planning a second honeymoon, and by second I mean we got divorced and remarried 😬, and this is the place we have decided on. I always wanted to travel to Banif since I saw your season of the Bachelor, huge fan! Thank you again!
Hey, nothing wrong with that! Y’all will have a blast – full of born again romance and all!
YES!!! Banff is on my list to visit, maybe next summer!! thank you for the great tips!
Of course! Anytime 🙂
Hey Lesley! I love your blog and you in general! I plan on taking my boyfriend out west either in Canada or the states on our way home (Ohio) from Australia for Christmas! I was wondering if this trip to banff can still be done in the cooler months? Thank you 🙂
Banff is one of those places that is visited in every season. It’s a winter wonderland around Christmas, and instead of lots of hiking (although you can still do some in winter), kayaking and other summer activities, you can do winter activities like ice skating, dog sledding, snowshoeing, snowmobiling, etc. Upper hot springs is probably really great then, too!
Lesley, these pictures are amazing!! I’ve been wanting to go to Banff for such a long time! I keep trying to coordinate with my sisters or with my friends but the timing never works out. This inspired me so much and I think I’m going to do a solo trip. Thank you soo much!
Go girl! You’ll LOVE it!
My husband and I have been on the edge of our seats waiting for you to post the Canada blog! We are leaving for Banff in two weeks and I was wondering what were your favorite resturants? Did you go on any excursions? We can’t wait to enjoy the great outdoors!
I think I literally posted everything I did and ate and where I slept here 🙂 Favorite was Park Distillery in Banff and all the hikes I did! Try and get to Jasper National Park – disappointed I couldn’t do that!
Lucky to live in Calgary and get to enjoy this in my backyard. Glad you loved it! ❤
Loved reading about your trip! So helpful in planning ours. My sister and I leave for a trip to banff in 3 weeks! We’re definitely wanting to canoe on either emerald or Moraine lake, any thoughts on which might be better for that? Big beehive worth the hike?
Hmm.. when I was there, Emerald lake looked unreal to canoe on. You can see in one of the photos above how pristine and beautiful it is! I couldn’t picture doing it on Moraine b/c it was still partially frozen, but I’ve heard either is great!
Was waiting for this post ever since your photos! Thank you so much for sharing all your tips! I’m headed there in Sept and can’t wait.
Sept will be UNREAL. Have fun 🙂
I recently moved to Calgary [American transplant], and it’s great having Banff so close! I find the hot springs to be much more appealing in the winter evenings. My friends and I recently hiked around Kananaskis Country, which was also great for all levels. Lake Moraine is also super beautiful to canoe across in mid-late July. I’ll be putting Ha Ling Peak and Lake Agnes on my to-see list!
That makes sense about the hot springs 🙂 Lucky you to live so close!!
Thank you so much for your post!!! Your pictures are breathtaking and I have now added this place to my bucket list!! ❤️ Do you know if the trails have less snow in August or is it simply the elevation that will result in snow covered peaks year round? I also noticed you had hiking “boots”. So my Keens would not be recommended for Banff??
The trails will definitely have less snow in August. Banff just had a prolonged winter season this year. I think you could get away with Keens. They are pretty rugged anyways, but I just like my boots!
The pictures are simply stunning. Can’t wait to visit this part of Canada. Thanks for sharing!
Banff has a very special place in my heart. My husband and I spent our anniversary there camping near Johnson Canyon and then staying at the cabins at Moraine Lake. We always tried to visit a different national park for our July anniversary. We hiked the whole Beehive loop or whatever and it was tough! I’ve challenged myself with more backcountry hikes since, but it seemed hard at the time. Anyways, my husband passed away from melanoma about 2 years later when he was 27. But it literally was one of our favorite places in the world. I’d love to go again, either by myself or with my boyfriend. It’s such a special place, thanks for bring back memories, Les.
Hey Lesley, my husband and I were trying to make it to Banff this summer. Looking at your photos makes me so excited! Out of all the places your visited, is this one of your favorite places?
Amazing! Your pictures are so incredible that there is no need for words. Wow, you did a lot of hiking during these 5 days. Way to go!
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I love love your blog and your Instagram is wild!!! I saw your photos of Banff and knew I had to go. We will be staying at Paradise Bungalows. How was your experience?
Thanks for capturing our beautiful home so wonderfully here! As a Calgarian, I would recommend tagging a day in the city onto your next trip! We have some really amazing restaurants, I recommend Model Milk, or Proof for cocktails!
I’d love to! Part of me really wants to be Canadian ha! Thanks for the advice.
This post was exactly what I needed! I’m heading to Calgary on a work trip in July and am taking a couple of days off to visit Banff, will definitely be using this post as a resource 🙂
Awesome so glad to hear it!
Heading there in July and cannot wait!! Question- do you feel leggings are okay to hike in (since I see that’s what you typically wear)- any certain ones to recommend? And do you think most of the hikes need hiking shoes or would tennis shoes be okay?
xo, Kristina
Yeah leggings are definitely okay 🙂 I love my Under Armour and Beyond Yoga leggings. Tennis shoes are okay but I’ve definitely ruined some over the years by hiking in them. If I have space, I try to bring hiking boots!
Hello! Thank you for this post! I am looking at going to Banff on a solo trip too. In your opinion, how safe is it for a female traveller who is travelling solo for the first time to go on this trip? And are these activities free or do they require some form of payment? Thank you!
I think Banff is a great spot for solo female travel. That’s exactly how I experienced it for my second trip in the area, but even for a first timer – I think it’s a great option. Get some bear spray, though, if you are hiking alone just to be on the safe side!!
I am heading there next week for my first solo travel adventure and I can’t wait! This post was so helpful!! Do you have any tips for traveling alone? Was the beehive hike worth it?
I loved Beehive 🙂 And as far as traveling alone goes – just be super aware of your surroundings (including the people around you). If you’re someone who likes to listen to music, maybe turn the volume down or listen with one earbud out. Carry bear spray if hiking alone. Be very present. Banff is a great place for solo travel!
thanks for the photos and blog! what are your exact days there? I am told at Summer night it is about 40 degree and in high elevation it’s cold, but you dress in summer, so I would like know when you were there!
have you experienced mosquitoes elsewhere other than that lake?
do you think 5 full days are enough to travel from Canmore to Jesper Park?
I’ve read a bunch of travel reviews and this has been my favorite! Thank you. Was also going to ask whether you felt safe traveling as a female solo but from the comments it looks like you did so long as you were aware of your surroundings.
My fiancé and I just booked Juniper Hotel for part of our honeymoon. Please tell me you enjoyed your stay there! Did you do the bistro for any other meals besides breaky?
Thanks for a great post!
Wow this is incredible! I had never heard of Ha Ling Peak but now definitely have to try it next time I’m up there. Also, for your next time when you are doing Little Beehive and Big Beehive, the Plain of Six Glaciers was awesome! And if you go into Yoho again, you HAVE TO DO Lake O’Hara to Opabin Prospect. Best overlook in Canada hands-down.
Your trip looks amazing! Banff is one of my favorite place in Canada. I would love to go back there one day!
This post is really helpful thanks! Looking forward to visiting solo in August 🙂