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Aguas Arriba Lodge with Quasar Expeditions: Part I

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The Experience

The owners of the five-bedroom lodge on the lake are just as lovely as the colorful flora and fauna that reside close by. Pato and Ivor are welcoming hosts who’ve been running this well-oiled machine for 15 years. The couple’s conservation efforts in the middle of nowhere are beyond impressive – hot water is only available in the mornings until 10am and again from 7-10pm. This is the only time you can charge your electronics, too. ‘No service, no wifi, no problems’ is what they say.

Okay, not really. I said that…but they might as well put a cursive placard above the door for guests to read upon entry. I had no idea that when I arrived, I’d have zero communication with the outside world (i.e. social media) until after my departure. Going off the grid every once in a while is a damn good thing. I need to remind myself of that often.

Activities

At Aguas Arriba Lodge, guests can hike, fly fish, or do nothing at all in complete privacy – and everything except alcohol (lodging, food, guided treks, fishing, boating) is included in the rates. I went with the hiking and the doing nothing at all, and I’d highly recommend these two activities if you get the chance to make a visit. Located on Lago del Desierto, the retreat is only 23 miles from El Chalten, the national capital of trekking.

One of my favorite hikes to date (besides Laguna de los Tres below) was to Huemul Glacier where the glacier-fed lake waters appear to be dyed the color of my childhood bedroom, robin egg blue, i.e. really, really blue, i.e. not natural.

Can we talk about the color of this lake for a second? I’ve never seen anything quite like its shade in a body of water before. I sat on that rock for a long time drinking my hot tea and loving life. To get here, we hiked for about an hour through magical forests and postcard worthy views, seeing three other viewpoints along the way. They kept getting better and better, with the Huemul Lake being the grand finale. What a beauty!

I can’t write an article about Aguas Arriba and not talk about the food. Nom nom nom nom nom. Fresh, local and natural is the name of the game here, and Aguas Arriba is winning big time. My favorite dish is their seriously good apple crumble, and the best part? The extremely generous Pato shares her recipes! Find below and replicate to the best of your abilities!

Many thanks to the exceptional owners and staff who welcomed us into the lodge and made the visit special including Leo, Debbie, Pat and Ivor. I hope to reunite one day soon!

What To Do In El Chaltén

What to do? I’ll tell you what to do. Admire Fitz Roy from afar on the road (there’s only one, you can’t miss it) from El Calafate to El Chalten. The photos are unlike anything else you’ll have in your collection. They will continue to speak to me for as long as I continue to write for The Road Les Traveled. There is not a more perfect picture for TRLT than this beauty.

After spending an hour photographing a road, head into the town of El Chalten, the gateway to explore the highest peak in a compact range of granite peaks in Parque Nacional Los Glaciares of Argentine Patagonia. The Laguna de los Tres hike is 20km in total, and it’s all fun and games until km #9 where flat plains turn into an uphill battle of about 1500ft to reach the laguna where hikers can experience one of the best views of Fitz Roy. Yay for tough workouts! This is one of my favorite hikes to date, and you can do it with Aguas Arriba Lodge.

How To Get Here

This is my third time to Argentine Patagonia, and I’ve always flown from Buenos Aires to El Calafate with LAN Airlines. The drive from El Calafate to El Chalten is three hours via Jeep with Quasar Expeditions, and the extra 23 miles to Lago del Desierto is where Aguas Arriba staff will greet you and transport you and your belongings via short boat ride to the lodge.

I’ve worked with Quasar Expeditions a few times before I was able to experience their nine day Overland Jeep Safari from Argentine Patagonia to Chilean Patagonia. I sailed on Grace Kelly’s honeymoon yacht in the Galapagos, and I got behind the wheel for an adventurous afternoon in Torres del Paine. Quasar is one of my favorite tour operators I’ve ever worked with because there’s nothing like being able to explore a vast region on your own time, in your own Jeep. This was only the beginning – more to come on road tripping through the southernmost tip of the world!

Eolo Lodge with Quasar Expeditions: Part II

Patagonia Camp (Yurts!) with Quasar Expeditions Part III

See more breathtaking images from my stay at Aguas Arriba below.

How to Wear Activewear Anywhere & Everywhere

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“Diamonds were once a girl’s best friend, and then yoga pants happened.”

— Unknown

The lines have officially been blurred between work and workouts, casual wear and activewear, flexible vacation days and flexible outfits. Tell me something. Have your yoga pants ever even been to yoga? Perfectly okay if not. And who needs a business suit to make things happen? Consider yoga pants and tanks the new power suit. I travel for a living, and spandex is the new jean. Sitting on a plane for hours on end definitely calls for function – but not at the expense of fashion. Thanks to Calia by Carrie Underwood for sending along these pieces, I’m comfy, cute and ready for a walk in the park once I finally get to where I’m going.

Last weekend, I was home (for once!) and decided to document everything I was able to do in various forms of activewear, whether it be dressed up, dressed down, or worn as is. It’s confirmed: You can wear activewear everywhere – except maybe dinner with the President.

It’s officially May, which means it’s almost summer, which means being by the pool is necessary. Getting somewhat sun-kissed while protecting myself from a cool morning breeze every now and again with cropped leggings and a tank was just what Mother Nature ordered.

After working up a sweat at the pool, grocery shopping was definitely in the cards. I threw on a jean jacket for a bit more coverage (yep, the frozen section is cold!) Embrace the layers.

Orangina breaks with mom were welcomed after many months of travel. We had a lot of catching up to do!

I was able to fit in another generation that day – walks with Mimi are the best. I threw on comfy walking shoes and a light sweater, of which she complimented me on – score!

It was time to speed things up again with a run along the river. It was hot hot HOT that afternoon, so I tied the tank in a knot and got going.

To end the day, my new nephew kept me busy as I strolled him around the neighborhood with a sweater around my waist in case the spring breeze came back with a vengeance.

The next day was more leisurely with a scarf, long leggings and a tank. Did I just wake up? Am I about to go to the gym? Am I having a doggie play date? No one will ever know.

Ugh. After 7 weeks of international travel, the laundry was never-ending. I don’t know what’s worse: packing for a trip or unpacking from a trip. I think the obvious answer is the latter…

While the laundry never stops, neither does the work! I have so much to show off from traveling throughout South America for so long. Work attire in long, dark leggings, ballet flats and amped up jewelry works perfectly for the office – even if that’s a home office 🙂 Ever noticed how stress levels go down when switching from skinny jeans to yoga pants? Mmmmhmmmm.

After hours of being in front of a computer, something – anything – mindless is a welcome retreat. Netflix and chill in my activewear, duh.

New week, new plane, same activewear. The show must go on, the travel must continue, but this cozy outfit remains a constant!

My 9 Favorite Travel Beauty Products

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They say nothing brings to life a forgotten memory like fragrance. That’s because smell is the strongest link to memory. During my recent time in Argentina, there’s one scent that will forever remind me of traveling over Patagonia rivers and through Argentine woods. It exudes the colors of the flat plains before it and trails after me like a warm cashmere scarf. It’s easy and simple, yet tough and rugged when necessary – the essence of Patagonia. I think the best scents evoke the best feelings and can make you believe the impossible can become possible – I can climb the mountain, I can trek the hillside for miles. Who knew perfume could be so powerful?!

Much like perfume, travel is a highly personal matter. These 9 beauty products are currently in my overweight suitcase because over the past few years, I’ve learned what it takes to make a vacation successful. Perhaps your cosmetic bag tells a different story!

Breakfast of Champions: South American Style

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My favorite meal of the day? Breakfast. I could eat cereal for all three meals, actually. Pancakes, waffles, eggs — bring it on. When I read ‘breakfast served all day’ on the menu, my tastebuds start prepping for the party. When I miss a free breakfast included in a hotel rate, it’s not going to be a good day. After spending three years in South America, it’s time to present the breakfast of champions from the Andes of Argentina to plains of Peru.

Argentina

A quick coffee or maté with a medialuna is the typical Argie breakfast, although I can hardly stop at just one medialuna (a croissant, but better). These two delectable items play homage to the café culture around the big city. Lingering over a cup of coffee while you try to piece together the previous night’s festivities at the boliche (club) is a Saturday morning must. Oh! Almost forgot the dulce de leche. Yes, even at breakfast this sugary treat is served.

Perú

After recently spending 10 days in this incredible country, I am more than mildly obsessed. Note to all travelers: there is so much more here than meets the eye (i.e. Machu Picchu). Perú is a land of diversity. It’s got mountains, jungles, cities, etc. Different regions eat different things, but the main standout here is the pan con chicharrón, a sandwich of braised pork, sweet potato and spicy sauces on french bread. I couldn’t dream up a better hangover cure than that! I can definitely speak to what I ate in the mountains during last week’s 5 day trek, and that’s quinoa soup with raisins. Mmmmm!

Colombia

Can we get one thing straight for a second? It’s ‘Colombia’ not ‘Columbia’ y’all. Shit. It’s embarrassing when people get the country confused with the school or brand. Now that we’ve got that out of the way, Colombian’s are super passionate about their coffee. Like, prideful AF. Go to Colombia and try not to visit a coffee plantation. (Ok, I’ve been twice and hung out on the beach the whole time BUT STILL. It’s hard.) I think this is why everyone loves Colombian women – because they are amped up on coffee which zaps their appetite, so they drink liquid gold and eat exotic fruit like bomb granadilla (sweeter version of passion fruit) in order to stay upright every day. The good life.

I’m only kidding. Sort of. Colombian’s love their arepas with scrambled eggs, diced tomatoes and scallions. A Medellin fave is the calentado made with leftovers like beans, rice and chicharrones.

Brazil

Juuuuuuuuuuuuuuuice. Good for the body, good for the soul. But yeah, Brazilians love their fruit juices, and don’t even get me started on açaí. Nevermind, I’m already started. If you’ve never tried this unbelievable source of purple energy, you are living under a rock, or aren’t very adventurous, or don’t enjoy eating. Maybe you don’t have tastebuds. Just TRY IT. It’s life changing. Other breakfast goodies, or café da manhã, include fruits, coffee, cheese, ham, bread and pastries. Pão de queijo (soft, chewy cheese rolls) are the bomb.com.

Ecuador

Breakfast tends to vary by region in Ecuador, but many places serve the staples: coffee, fruit juices, scrambled eggs and toast. A local favorite are plantains, often mixed in with eggs, cheese, and tortillas. Not a coffee drinker? You should be to handle this culture. Just kidding. There’s another option for you – try colada de avena, an oatmeal drink flavored with orange, sugar and cinnamon.

Chile

AVOCADO TOAST FOR THE WIN!!! Like most Americans right now, Chileans adore this scrumptious greenery. My mouth is watering just thinking about it. Mashed avo on grilled bread with a pinch of salt is heaven on earth. Come to think of it, I’m almost at the end of this food post. I may just have to go make myself some avo toast after all is said and done. I can hardly concentrate on anything else right now. Uhm, okay. Focus. What else do Chileans like? I fell in love with strawberry juice while in Chile last year, and I adore the locals even more because they introduced me to it. Now I’m going to have to make a run to the store for some fresh strawberries. It’s blender time. I sincerely hope I made y’all as hungry as I made myself!

Hungry? Why wait? Grab a seat on the next flight out of town for a bite of these South America staples. LAN & TAM (soon to be LATAM) Airlines operates direct flights from New York, LA, Miami and Orlando to the above LatAm destinations! It’s time. The exotic fruits are waiting on you.

Over to you! Been to South America? What are your favorite breakfast eats?

My Favorite Camera Equipment of the Moment

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With all of that being said, it doesn’t mean your current model is of bad quality. It just means that we as consumers always want the next best thing (probably because the producers make them seem simply irresistible – Apple I’m talking to you.) After taking photos for a few years now, my camera bag is now two camera bags…and you wonder what I do to keep fit while traveling. Curling various bags while crossing the globe totally counts.

Without further adieu, here’s the camera gear I’m working with at the moment. Of course that could change soon…as with every DJI newsletter, I can feel my bank account starting to tremble.

Nikon DSLRs

Above are two of my favorite – and only – DSLRs I’ve shot with. Allow me to introduce you to my Nikon D7100. I highly recommend this camera as it shoots amazing quality photos and videos (full HD movies at 24, 25 or 30 frames per second). The weather-sealed body eases my mind when I’m taking shots in the rain, it has incredibly fast auto-focus detection, and I’m in love with the dual SD card slot. If you’re just beginning your quest as a photographer, you may want to look at this entry-level Nikon D3200. This is the camera I started shooting with, and I still use it to this day.

Lenses

If I had to choose only one lens to carry around, it would be the Tamron AF 18-200mm lens for Nikon. THE BEST. For indoor photography and landscape shots, I adore my Tokina 11-16mm. Up-close-and-personal (food or fashion-related captures for example) pair well with my Nikon AF 50mm. Lastly, my Tamron AF 70-300mm is perfect for wildlife and sports photography.

Sorry, Nikon. Did we just break up?

Break-up with Nikon? Never. Maybe two-timing though. A downfall to these two DSLR cameras is their size. Sure, they are bulky. I chalk it up as a daily arm workout. If they are too much for you to handle, check out the Canon Powershot G3X. I know, I know…they say you’re either a Nikon person or a Canon person, but I like straddling the line. For a compact camera, the G3X delivers with a longer zoom range (24-600mm equivalent lens), tilting LCD screen, weather-sealed feature and full HD movie capture in 24, 30 or 60p frame rates.

Geeking Out: DJI Obsessed

Y’all. I think I’m in love. Have you SEEN the aerial footage my DJI Phantom 3 Advanced captures? GAME.CHANGER. Yes, it’s a bitch to travel with, but again – have you SEEN this footage? Worth the extra weight. And I’m just as obsessed with my new DJI Osmo that captures the smoothest videos I’ve ever seen. Smoother than your newborn’s booty. Smoother than melted buttah. Smoother than Jay Z’s lyrics. It shoots 4K video AND you can take photos on it, just like you can with the drone over 3 miles away from its starting point. MIND.BLOW. God I love technology.

GoPro + Accessories

You got the GoPro. You purchased the DSLR. You bought the drone. You think you’re done. Hahahahahahahahah. AHHHahahahahaha. Wrong! If you went so far as to pay up for these high dollar items, you might as well make it to the finish line with the much needed accessories to make the outcome even better! Happy photographing 🙂

Travel Tag: Palacio Duhau Park Hyatt Buenos Aires

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The Experience

With an art gallery, olympic swimming pool, flower shop, and vinoteca, this Argentine hotel immediately stood out. It takes up almost an entire block in the well-to-do area of Recoleta, so it’s not hard to catch passerby’s eye. The experience as a whole was grand and fairytale-like because, well, I spent most of my time in an 82-year-old palace. If this is as close as I’ll get to feeling like a Disney princess, I’ll take it, especially since I don’t even have to step foot in tourist-ridden Orlando. Score!

The Suite

Contemporary. Crisp. Comfortable. The three C’s. This is how I take my hotel rooms, and Palacio Duhau definitely delivered. Here, tech-savvy modernity meets the belle-époque elegant view from room 802. It had everything I needed from a king-sized bed to work station that doubled as a workout area.

Activities + Amenities

Spa. Pool. Mini bar. Butler. Wine tastings. Cheese shop. Tango dancing. Baths. Bath salts. Not the weird kind. Cozy couches I want to purchase. Fast wifi. Gardens. Flowers. Real life flowers. Art. Four fine dining establishments. Mmmmm.

After that brainstorm sesh, I don’t know why you wouldn’t want to stay here.

Tango

If you’re the least bit interested in trying out tango while in Buenos Aires, call Natalia and Juan at Tango & Tango for some moves. Don’t be surprised when it’s harder than it looks! I particularly loved the class not just because Natalia and Juan were so patient with Wade and me (we were seriously horrible dancers), but because they took the time to explain the important history behind the culture.

It all started 150 years ago in Buenos Aires when European immigrants came to the southern neighborhoods of the city. With the combination of various cultures, tango was born as a way of communication and means to express oneself. It’s a culture, not a dance. It’s a movie, not a photo. But we took some anyway…

A Local Touch

Find out what’s in the neighborhood below.

Fuegia – Beautiful perfume and candle shop that I make a point to stop in every time I’m on Avenida Alvear.

Recoleta Cemetery – If you haven’t heard of this, there’s a good chance you’re living under a rock. Go see for yourself and check out the lifestyles of the rich and the famous after death.

Arandú – Favorite store in BA that sells Argie-inspired products such as leather, maté cups, wallets, gloves and clothing.

Juana M – Best salad I’ve eaten in BA.

Le Pain Quotidien – Because it’s always good, all around the world.

Fervor – Mmmm fish.

El Sanjuanino – Mmmmm MMMM Mmmmm empanadas!

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